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West Face Direct Variation, Monkey Face, Smith Rock Gear Beta


Original Post
Zach Tom · · Lafayette,CA or Seattle, WA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Hi, I am planning to do the West Face Direct Variation continuing on to the bolt ladder that leads to monkey off my back on Monkey face next weekend. Does anyone have any gear beta for the route? I am really only worried about the first two pitches of trad climbing, not the grade but the gear. I have a set of nuts, and a single rack of C4's from .4 to #3, my friend only has a .4 X4. Will this be enough?

Thanks!

Marlin Thorman · · Spokane, WA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 385

I have climbed that Variation several times.  I think the answer to your question is it depends.  If 5.8/5.9 is your limit then you will probably want a little more gear for the first 2 pitches.  But a single set of cams and nuts should be fine if you are willing to only place gear every 15 feet or so.  Definitely don't need anything bigger although .3 would be useful.  Be sure to save your small gear for the flared chimney section on the 2nd pitch.  The last half of the 2nd pitch is more like easy 5th class climbing up to the bottom of the bolt ladder.  Have fun, it is a stellar route!

Zach Tom · · Lafayette,CA or Seattle, WA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
Marlin Thorman wrote:

I have climbed that Variation several times.  I think the answer to your question is it depends.  If 5.8/5.9 is your limit then you will probably want a little more gear for the first 2 pitches.  But a single set of cams and nuts should be fine if you are willing to only place gear every 15 feet or so.  Definitely don't need anything bigger although .3 would be useful.  Be sure to save your small gear for the flared chimney section on the 2nd pitch.  The last half of the 2nd pitch is more like easy 5th class climbing up to the bottom of the bolt ladder.  Have fun, it is a stellar route!

How long are each of the pitches?

Marlin Thorman · · Spokane, WA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 385

The first pitch is a little over 100 feet...maybe 120ft max.  The 2nd pitch is a little longer if I remember right (140-150ft) but the top half is super easy.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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