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What cams should I get to supplement the ones I already have?


Original Post
Zach Schmidtke · · Crystal Lake, IL · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

So, I have number 1, 2, and 3 of the DMM Demon 2 cams. As you may know, it seems they have been discontinued. For smaller sizes than that number 1 I was thinking of getting Master Cams in sizes 1, 2, and 3. Is that a good route? 

Also, eventually I will want to double up on some sizes. What brand and sizes should I go with?

Thanks everyone.

Señor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
Zach Schmidtke wrote:

So, I have number 1, 2, and 3 of the DMM demon cams. As you may know, it seems they have been discontinued. For smaller sizes than that number 1 I was thinking of getting Master Cams in sizes 1, 2, and 3. Is that a good route? 

Also, eventually I will want to double up on some sizes. What brand and sizes should I go with?

Thanks everyone.

What makes you think they're discontinued?

Zach Schmidtke · · Crystal Lake, IL · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

What makes you think they're discontinued?

All retailers either don't have them or they are remaining new stock. Also DMM's new website doesn't have them listed. I'm not the only person who thinks this either if you google it.

Señor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

There seems to be a Demon 2. Link to Backcountry.com

So they're not so much discontinued as upgraded, and at least plenty available. 

But to answer your question directly, you only have 3 cams right now. If you're building out a rack buy whatever cams you think will work best. Don't worry about acommodating your current 3 cams. The small metolius cams are really good. I've used them plenty. I also like the BD X4s.

I know people sometimes try to mix and match cams to achieve the perfect coverage of any size cracks. I'm not that advanced and find that too many choices just confuses me in the moment. My working rack is a mix of x4 and c4 BDs from .1 to 4 with a couple x4 offsets thrown in just for giggles. 

Zach Schmidtke · · Crystal Lake, IL · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

The Demon 2's are what I have and are discontinued. that is just limited new stock that's left over. The reason I wasn't initially interested by the Dragon 2's is because they don't have the half sizes, I suppose just doubling up with those would be just as good though because they are dual axle.

Señor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
Zach Schmidtke wrote:

The Demon 2's are what I have and are discontinued. that is just limited new stock that's left over. The reason I wasn't initially interested by the Dragon 2's is because they don't have the half sizes, I suppose just doubling up with those would be just as good though because they are dual axle.

Looking here it appears that the Dragons are the same basic sizes and colors as the BDs. If I'm not mistaken, the Demon's had 9 cams in the range and the Dragons have 8 over the same range (approximately BD .3-4). So I'm not getting, exactly, what is achieved with the "half-sizes."

Lin Robinson · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 30

Just buy a rack of c4s and don’t over think it 

Blackmore · · Cedar City, Utah · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 20

You can't go wrong with master cams. I have climbed all over the earth and can tell you this from experience double up on 1/2" , 3/4" , 1" , and a 2". This is for granite or the new river. If Sandstone then double up on everything up to a 4" cam, and then some. Aliens are also  good to mix in your rack. If one cam won't work another will. Keep that in mind. Send hard and be safe.


Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 135

I like Dragons over Demons, since the double axel width gives it a bit more versatility.  But the real issue is what do you need?  Do you climb somewhere where you need wee cams?  Do you have  a cam that always get placed, maybe you need two of them.  I would do with doubles in the BD 0.5, 0.75 and 1 sizes (or DMM Dragon or Wild Country Equivalent).  These sizes are the ones I find most useful.

You have 3 cams that cover a range that has very little overlap.  So if you really want to plug the holes, you get a Demon 1.5 and 2.5 so you have a lot more versatility.  Smaller but not too small is a BD 0.4/Dragon 0.

Or wait for the Totem fans to start chiming in...

dindolino32 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 25
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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