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The new Nomic


Original Post
Mike Lofgren · · Brighton · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 90

New Nomics

New spike that’s similar to quarks, minimalist hammer, apparently modified shaft and grip, and compatibility with a new class of picks.

Released July 2018.


Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I like that the new Nomic comes with the Pur ice pick. You almost can’t go wrong these days, X Dreams, Raptors or Nomics. So many good tools out there.

Marty Theriault · · Quebec, QC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 310

ClimbingOn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 405

That is super sleek looking. Any idea if the overall weight of the tool will stay the same?

Mike Lofgren · · Brighton · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 90
ClimbingOn wrote:

That is super sleek looking. Any idea if the overall weight of the tool will stay the same?

Handle looks hollowed out, or white. White would be odd choice so probably hollowed. Could reduce weight.

No specific info on weight though 

t.farrell · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 60
Mike Lofgren wrote:

Handle looks hollowed out, or white. White would be odd choice so probably hollowed. Could reduce weight.

No specific info on weight though 

It’s hollowed. 

Aaron T · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 5
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,476

I didn't realize it, but a lot of ice and mixed climbers are put off by how Petzl ignored issues with the Nomic heads coming loose over the past five years. They refused to do anything about it and their rep athletes acted like it wasn't happening. Then they offer a plastic insert to fix the "non-problem" which confirms the issue all along. A lot of people have ditched Petzl and moved on to Camp tools. Has anyone else known about this?

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5
Tim Stich wrote:

I didn't realize it, but a lot of ice and mixed climbers are put off by how Petzl ignored issues with the Nomic heads coming loose over the past five years. They refused to do anything about it and their rep athletes acted like it wasn't happening. Then they offer a plastic insert to fix the "non-problem" which confirms the issue all along. A lot of people have ditched Petzl and moved on to Camp tools. Has anyone else known about this?

Had no idea about this. I have some Ergos that were replaced by the handle issue right after they came out about 7 years ago. But didn't know anything about the head problem, haven't had any issues myself. 

bearded sam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 145
Keenan Waeschle · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200

I’ve ‘broke’ 10 nomics. It’s usually just some creaking and a few mm of movement at the tip of the pick, but there was a season where I kept sending them back. Now I just deal. Even with that issue they climb better than anything else, and tools 11 and 12 have lasted 2 seasons without any looseness. You know what they say, 6th time’s the charm!


Hope the issue has finally been resolved though. These look the same, with a couple slightly better modifications. 

Ryan Pfleger · · North Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 15

I like the hollow handles. Looks like it still gives you a full strength tether attachement point if you use tethers.

Aaron T · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 5
Tim Stich wrote:

I didn't realize it, but a lot of ice and mixed climbers are put off by how Petzl ignored issues with the Nomic heads coming loose over the past five years. They refused to do anything about it and their rep athletes acted like it wasn't happening. Then they offer a plastic insert to fix the "non-problem" which confirms the issue all along. A lot of people have ditched Petzl and moved on to Camp tools. Has anyone else known about this?

I have known about it, I noticed one of mine had a slight creak after doing some drytooling. Three seasons of mostly ice on them. There are ways to fix it, mine aren't bad enough to bother yet. I have gone to the Cassin tools as my workhorse tools to save wear on the nomics, since I like them better all around. There are also some upper griprests that have broken off, hopefully they've done something about that. The plastic insert seems like a shit way to deal with the loose heads, but time will tell.

Karl Henize · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 643
Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 491
Tim Stich wrote:

I didn't realize it, but a lot of ice and mixed climbers are put off by how Petzl ignored issues with the Nomic heads coming loose over the past five years. They refused to do anything about it and their rep athletes acted like it wasn't happening. Then they offer a plastic insert to fix the "non-problem" which confirms the issue all along. A lot of people have ditched Petzl and moved on to Camp tools. Has anyone else known about this?

The creak/play in the head from the one rivet design is frequently brought up on the Canadian Rockies ice group. It seems to happen faster with dry tooling mileage, but I've seen it on a friends nomics that have only been on fat ice. 

Parker Cunneen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 26

Up till now I’ve liked the XDreams more than the old Nomics. Mostly because of the handle. I like this new more aggressive handle with a spike. 

Chris W · · Somerville, MA · Joined May 2015 · Points: 168

Definitely on my list of possible tools for my planned upgrade next year if all goes well :)

jg fox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5
Tim Stich wrote:

I didn't realize it, but a lot of ice and mixed climbers are put off by how Petzl ignored issues with the Nomic heads coming loose over the past five years. They refused to do anything about it and their rep athletes acted like it wasn't happening. Then they offer a plastic insert to fix the "non-problem" which confirms the issue all along. A lot of people have ditched Petzl and moved on to Camp tools. Has anyone else known about this?

I’ve read about that on the UK Climbing forums.  Lot of irate Scottish Winter climbers there.

Real question is, what is a good ice/mixed tool? Petzl set the standard with their tools and picks, Black Diamond is always trailing along catching up a season or two later (four seasons with their ultralight ice screws).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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