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Thoughts on Trango Cams??


Original Post
Beau Owen · · Brevard NC · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 15

I have a pro deal with Trango and want to know if anybody has experience with their Pro?

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an… · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

Before anyone else says it... just buy camalots

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 205

Buy the new wild country friends.

Joe Leach · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 5

I have a set i bought off a friend for >50% off, been using them as i slowly acquire a decent rack.


The small sizes are quite nice and I do like them, I've been using them with metolius cams.  I've never whipped on one but they seem to grip well and feel solid.

Anything bigger than the #6 or #7 are REALLYYYY annoying to use, and inspires no confidence when you climb past them. Springs arent strong enough and they end up flopping around.

If you really need to save some cash the 1-5 are fine, and then add like a .75 and greater in C4's. (double check these sizes, this is from memory..)

Edit: Like the last guy says, the WC friends are sick.

Luke Counterman · · Michigan · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

I have a #2 and #3 Flex cam and I have no complaints about them. The general consensus though seems to the larger sizes are finicky and not confidence inspiring. See here: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/106040724/trango-flex-cams

If you are just starting to build a rack look elsewhere as others have already mentioned. If you already have a basic rack of cams and want to double up on some smaller sizes, the flex cams would be a good choice.

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an… · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

... buy used c4s for less than your prodeal on new trango cams. 

New cams are expensive. I have been climbing trad what feels like a long time. I have cams that i have owned for 10 years. I have whipped and smashed my C4s. My first rack of cams is still on my harness. Why would you pay more for wild country to make c4 copys when you can get quality cams used for 30 bucks? Most people selling pro on here say they never even whipped on their gear.

If you ever climb above 5.11 trad you will want all of your units to make sense on you rack. You will want to have all of the ranges dialed in your head. You will want all of the colors to make sense. 

You will not want to be fumbling with cams with less range and floppy action.

I am sure that some people climb 5.13 with floppy cams, 11mm ropes and sloppy blown out shoes. the rest of us wear good shoes, use skinny ropes and climb hard over camalots. 



Rob D. · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30
Rob Warden...Space Lizard wrote:


I am sure that some people climb 5.13 with floppy cams, 11mm ropes and sloppy blown out shoes. the rest of us wear good shoes, use skinny ropes and climb hard over camalots. 

Many times I have had this same thought and not be able to articulate it quite this well. 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 205
Rob Warden...Space Lizard wrote:

Why would you pay more for wild country to make c4 copys when you can get quality cams used for 30 bucks? 

Because it addresses all of the flaws of C4's design creating pretty much the perfect double axle cam, i managed to get my wild country's for £40 a piece (bundle) and my friend managed £30 all brand new(bundle and a 25% off voucher), granted we are uk based but there are always deals to be found.

Settling on cams is a false economy imo because as soon as you can afford better cams you will get them and considering cams last almost indefinitely there is no reason to not just go good first time and on that note.

Buy totems.

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an… · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

Seb,

He lives im trumplandia not brexitonia. So camalots are king here. Cheap, durable C4s are everywhere here. 

What design flaws are you alluding to? I dont understand what you mean? Geniueine curiosity on my part. 

I own 2 sets of totems. I would still recomend c4s overt totems for a new leader. C4s are a better unit to be smashed and crammed by gripped leaders. 

I would not  recomend X4s 


Auden Alsop · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 10

Rob,

I've got 4 X4s and love them, why would you not recommend them? The two main flaws I've encountered are price, obviously, and kinking of the stem.

What else would make you not recommend them?

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an… · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

I have broken lots of them. Many  more than other units. I find the action to be weak. I would much rather have a C3, orginal master cam, or totem (you got me seb) 

For splitter crack nothing beats a C4 in the finger sizes. They are Plug and go at its best.  



Zacks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 65

my friend has some trango flex cams, they are garbage, one popped on a whip he took and a chunk of metal is missing from the cam (thats why it popped we think) i've placed them a few times (never fallen on them and only used them on easier climbs, never a crux piece) and i hate them, if you ever climb with mastercams or x4s you will never want to use the trangos, and all your climbing partners will hate your rack.

rockhard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 65

I like the largest flex cam. Equivalent to an old bd 3.5 but much lighter.  I think it's an awesome alpine piece

bkozak · · Sterling, VA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 70

All other things aside, I think the ergonomics of the flex cams suck.  I climbed with someone who racked them (had a Trango pro deal as well) and just cleaning them was a pain.  The big thing I hate about them is the thumb loop is laughably small.  I have large hands and I couldn't get my thumb in comfortably.  I had to palm the back of the thumb loop to hold it.  I've never had that issue with any other cams I've used and it was really annoying.  As mentioned by others, the stems are real floppy and they're range is pretty small.  

Use the pro deal to get all of your gear besides cams and nuts.  Other brands like BD, DMM, and Wild Country make far superior protection.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 205
Rob Warden...Space Lizard wrote:

Seb,

He lives im trumplandia not brexitonia. So camalots are king here. Cheap, durable C4s are everywhere here. 

What design flaws are you alluding to? I dont understand what you mean? Geniueine curiosity on my part. 

Okay when i say flaws it's more like poor design choices, stuff like the really stiff stem and large head swage, non extendable sling, heavy lobe design, heavy solid dual axle. The stiff design makes them less safe really especially for an inexperienced leader when they might not extend their cams appropriately, stiff design and lack of extendable sling may make them walk, this is at best a pain in the ass and at worst dangerous.

I own 2 sets of totems. I would still recomend c4s overt totems for a new leader. C4s are a better unit to be smashed and crammed by gripped leaders. 

My friend (noob leader) broke a totem through placing it tipped out so i get the concern for a new leader but he will just have to be a bit more careful with his placement and he will get to reap the benefits a year or two down the road. 

I would not  recomend X4s 

Only climbed with them once though i have seen enough exploded X4's to agree.

Ryan Swanson · · Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50

I have a set from the 3-9.  They all place just fine.  Extendable sling is nice.  They are light and cheap.  Works for me.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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