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Another avoidable lead fall.


Original Post
Kevin Mcbride · · Canmore AB · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 160

https://youtu.be/EXx_4TC3MfI

Wow, I'm suprised he didn't fall earlier. Let the mocking begin.

Tom Sherman · · Bristol, RI · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 412

Does this guy always move on those kind of sticks and swing so close together or was he just desperate for the entirety of this clip? Curious about the seeming delay in the full fall... 


EDIT: almost forgot.... is this guy wearing a colander on his head? Sound effects are awesome!!

Kevin Mcbride · · Canmore AB · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 160
Tom Sherman wrote:

Does this guy always move on those kind of sticks and swing so close together or was he just desperate for the entirety of this clip? Curious about the seeming delay in the full fall... 

He has another video of him climbing on his channel. Yes it appears that he has no idea how to concept of swinging or basic ice movement in general. His screw placement  game is also super weak.

Luc-514 · · Montreal, Quebec · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 9,087

Screw before top out, always, unless the ice is super plastic single shots.

Alan Coon · · Longmont, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 150

Mother of god. 

Benjamin Mitchell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

Watching this guy swinging his tools gives me the same feeling as those nightmares where someone's chasing you but you can only run in slow motion

Derick Page · · Ft Collins · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 20

YouTube is trying to help him out. After watching his video, the recommended videos included "how to build an anchor," "ice climbing efficiently," and "ice screw placement."

Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 105

I don't ice climb. Someone explain to me what is bad. Other than panicking, pumping, and falling. 

Kevin Mcbride · · Canmore AB · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 160
Rob Gordon wrote:

I don't ice climb. Someone explain to me what is bad. Other than panicking, pumping, and falling. 

Super short moves between swings, swings like shit, sticks are barely in the ice, no screw before top out.

Zavi D · · Mesa, AZ · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0
Rob Gordon wrote:

I don't ice climb. Someone explain to me what is bad. Other than panicking, pumping, and falling. 

Also getting your tools parallel. Nothing screams "noob in over my head" more than getting your ice tools next to each other when the terrain doesn't force you to. You see new people do this a lot because it's easier on the arms, which means you're not using your feet correctly. It is also a more awkward position to keep moving from and makes for slower climbing and tends to increase the number of swings you have to take massively with no real payoff.

AlpineIce · · Upstate, NY · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255
Zavi D wrote:

Also getting your tools parallel. Nothing screams "noob in over my head" more than getting your ice tools next to each other when the terrain doesn't force you to. You see new people do this a lot because it's easier on the arms, which means you're not using your feet correctly. It is also a more awkward position to keep moving from and makes for slower climbing and tends to increase the number of swings you have to take massively with no real payoff.

You couldn't be more correct and on-point.

Jack C. · · Calgary, AB · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 325

Plus his glove isn't tucked into his jacket's cuff.  I mean seriously people, c'mon. This is a life-or-death situation we've got here.


Señor Arroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
Allen Sanderson · · Oootah · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,146
Rob Gordon wrote:

I don't ice climb. Someone explain to me what is bad. Other than panicking, pumping, and falling. 

As said the guy's swing and tool placements are not good. Let start with the swing. When swinging a tool there is both movement from the elbow and the wrist. The wrist swing is the important part. If the majority of the swing comes just from the elbow one is just beating the ice.

The other the depth of the pick. He is barely getting them into the ice. Sometimes that is necessary but not in this case. With poor placements the chance of blowing out is high especially when moving around. One wants good sticks into the ice.

As for protection, when topping out the ice is often rotten because of the snow on top of it. As such the common wisdom is to place a screw before topping out.

Ira O · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 25

I've yet to watch a go pro film that didn't make me cringe the whole time watching it... could be me, but maybe it's just that everyone who thinks go-pros are cool sucks. I mean, who would post a video of themselves failing so epically? 

Señor Arroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
Ira O wrote:

I've yet to watch a go pro film that didn't make me cringe the whole time watching it... could be me, but maybe it's just that everyone who thinks go-pros are cool sucks. I mean, who would post a video of themselves failing so epically? 

GoPros are really cool for lots of things. But helmet-perspective climbing vids are just the worst. Even watching a great climber from that POV is horrible. And then you get guys like this and the "free solo" dude wearing gloves and dragging that weird pack up things. Awful.


Ira O · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 25

Haha, that free-solo nut was the other guy i was thinking of...

Dylan B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 936

That video is a pretty good representation of what I see when I ice climb, except the rope is always going up in front of my face instead of down between my feet and the falls are less dramatic.

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10
Dylan B. wrote:

That video is a pretty good representation of what I see when I ice climb, except the rope is always going up in front of my face instead of down between my feet and the falls are less dramatic.

At least you are self-aware...  Hard to improve if you don't realize there is a problem...

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

 I saw level feet and tools staggered until the top out. I saw that dude was looking down at his feet before moving them up. His placements were shallow. Lots of strong climbers don’t bury their tools. I don’t bury mine all the time. Dude’s tools were parallel to each other before he tried to top out but they looked to me like they were far enough apart so both tools would not pop at the same time due to the ice.

 That said, if you don’t bury your tools you better be damn sure your feet don’t blow. Dudes feet blew out due to poor fitness. Dude was leading at his limit, dumb, so he tried to gun it to the finish. Dude got tried with 5 feet to go and lost technique, lost his head when the ice at the top dinner plated and didn’t place a screw before the top out again due his fitness and dude learned the hard way.

 What I get from the video is the next time I’m pumping out it’s time to place a screw, clip in to it and yell “take” at the top your lungs in your best sissy voice. Because if you don’t maybe you get to the anchor and yell off belay or maybe you yell shit like dude. We’ve all been there

Andrew G · · San Diego, CA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 311
Rob Gordon wrote:

I don't ice climb. Someone explain to me what is bad. Other than panicking, pumping, and falling. 

I've barely ice climbed, and even I can tell that his swings are terrible. Well over half the time, when the tool hits the ice, it rotates sideways, often severely. Gonna be hard to stick it that way!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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