Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Northern Italy February


Original Post
Mark P. · · Luzern, Schweiz · Joined May 2013 · Points: 680

Hi MP hive mind,

I’ll be driving around northern Italy near Lake Como in mid-February. Does anyone have any recommendations for good multi pitch areas that won’t be too cold around then? Or good spots to camp?

thanks!

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 14,421

You mean ice climbing?  The Valmalenco area looks to have excellent ice climbing. 

Camping would be snowy...lot of campgrouns are closed...(-1C in Val Masino right now).

http://www.campingsassoremenno.com/main.html

I'd say your best bet if you're looking for warmer rock climbing would be to head south to Finale Ligure...and, hit the crags in the sun.

Mark P. · · Luzern, Schweiz · Joined May 2013 · Points: 680

Yeah looking for rock. It looks like Como has temps in the 50s during the day which is more than doable.  But I’ll check that out - thanks!

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 14,421

Not sure how much rock is around Como, per se.  Lecco yes and there is some south facing cragging.  Still, I'm seeing maybe mid 40's as the warmest if you're lucky and its a still, sunny day.

They are having winter over there...

Any alpine multi pitch type terrain north of Lago di Como (Sondrio etc), will be below freezing as the highs during Feb, typically.

Easy enough to reload with a drive to wherever depending on weather.

Tell us how it went!



Nick Votto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

Looks like there's still plenty of snow in the mountains, otherwise I would recommend Val Masino area.  Last time I was there it was just getting good in mid March, but that was also a low snow year.  Lecco will certainly be your best bet.  

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 13,579
Brian in SLC wrote:

Lecco yes and there is some south facing cragging

Don't know about February, but I think it's warm enough to climb S-facing around Lecco now.

. . . (Sharon and I are getting out our guidebooks and outdoor gear for some lakeside Sport climbing at similar latitude in France next few days).

. . . (I used to think this "Can't climb X in February" thing appled to Salt Lake City -- until Brian told us which fun crag to try on a warm day couple years ago).

Perhaps this will give a feel for what's available around Lecco:
http://www.rifugi.lombardia.it/attivita/arrampicata/via-cassin-al-medale-la-protagonista.html

On that same wall is a fairly exciting Via Ferrata route (exciting especially if try to make most of the moves "free" with hands and feet directly on the rock, using the chain only for protection, not Aid.

Quality of the climbing by Lecco might be better than the (somewhat similar) rock of the Dolomites, but lacking the views of dramatic peaks.

Ken

P.S. western Europe is small (compared to western USA).
The amazing Finale Ligure area is 3 hours from Como, perhaps only 2.5 hours in light traffic. In addition to being farther south and with temperatures moderated by the Sea, Finale has a micro-climate sometimes dry when everywhere around north Italy is drizzing raining snowing.

Willem Braat · · Paris · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

Good point for Finale Ligure. Perhaps Arco could work for you too, that’s a 3.5 hour drive

Mark P. · · Luzern, Schweiz · Joined May 2013 · Points: 680

Wonderful thanks for the suggestions! We’ll look at Lecco and Finale Ligure and make a call based on forecasts a few days before. Appreciate the help!

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 13,579

I think the guidebooks for around Lecco are all Italian or German. Might be that the Versante Sud guide has separate volumes for Multi-pitch + Single-pitch (so check for what you want). Seems to me that single-pitch works better in non-warm weather.   Not sure it's easy to purchase books + maps after you arrive in Lecco. (perhaps search first around Milano?)

Whatever you may have heard, many multi-pitch routes in Europe + Italy are not Sport-bolted. And many are not set up for single-rope rappels.

Good indoor gyms with good easy climbing not easy to find outside of German-speaking (NE) Italy.

Ken

Nick Votto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

All guidebooks can be bought here:  http://www.climb-europe.com/  

I have the Finale one and it's great

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 13,579

Europe guidebooks can also be purchased from several other websites (sometimes including country-specific Amazon websites) -- like Needlesports.com, or for Italy directly from the Versante Sud publisher.

Two key problems:

* what's the shipping cost?

* what's the shipping time?

Note that Finale Ligure now has two competing big thick guidebooks. I forget which one I like better - (I'm thinking the Marco Tomassini one, with more multi-pitch, and perhaps more English?)

And within an hour or two's drive from Finale in several directions, lots more crags have been opened (with guidebooks of their own).

Ken

Nick Votto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

This is indeed the better one, looks like there's a new version too: http://www.climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/Finale-Climbing-Guidebook.html

Mark P. · · Luzern, Schweiz · Joined May 2013 · Points: 680

Thanks all for the advice! Just got back from Finale Ligure and had a great time climbing at Monte Cucco, Bric Pianerella, and Capo Noli. There is indeed a new guidebook out from Thomas that is very thick and very helpful! Highly recommended if you head back there 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply to "Northern Italy February "
in the International

Log In to Reply