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Best Crack Climbs in Joshua Tree


Original Post
Alex Fyfe · · Summerlin, NV · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Hey Guys!

So I'm Moving to Vegas this summer and expect myself to be visiting J-Tree quite often as I will be less than 3 hours away, but since I've never been there before I have very little knowledge of the area or the climbs. That being said I figured I'd hop on MP to get a head start on my todo list, so if you guys would be so kind to recommend some of the best, or your favorite, crack climbs and maybe some test pieces of the area that would be super helpful.

What I'm looking for is fingertip to offwidth cracks ranging from 5.9 to 5.13.

Thanks guys, and I hope to se some of you out there!

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

J-Tree?  Summer?  The best ones will be the ones in the shade.....

Russ Walling · · www.FishProducts.com · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 3,231

That's a big range...

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,104
Alex Fyfe wrote:

Hey Guys!

So I'm Moving to Vegas this summer and expect myself to be visiting J-Tree quite often as I will be less than 3 hours away, but since I've never been there before I have very little knowledge of the area or the climbs. That being said I figured I'd hop on MP to get a head start on my todo list, so if you guys would be so kind to recommend some of the best, or your favorite, crack climbs and maybe some test pieces of the area that would be super helpful.

What I'm looking for is fingertip to offwidth cracks ranging from 5.9 to 5.13.

Thanks guys, and I hope to se some of you out there!

Equinox!

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535

Jtree is mostly crack and slab- so the best routes are usually one or the other. Just look at the classics list on this site and if it's not a slab, it's probably a crack. 

walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 125

Within that range their is a life times worth of "best cracks"!! Good luck in the summer it's a little warm then...


Xan Calonne · · Joshua Tree, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 35

The ones having the most fun.

corpse · · jtree area · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 5
Russ Walling · · www.FishProducts.com · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 3,231

Off the top of my head-ish:

5.9:  Touch and Go, Overseer, Popular Mechanics, Colorado Crack

5.10a:  Bird Of Fire, Tax Man, Exorcist, Firewater Chimney

5.10b: Illusion Dweller, Light Saber, Too Secret To Find, Spiderman

5.10c:  Rubicon, Clean and Jerk, Anacram, Kamikazi Crack

5.10d: Perpetual Motion, Imaginary Voyage, Centurion, One Armed Giant

5.11: Semi Tough, Hot Rocks, Coarse and Buggy, Wangerbanger, More Monkey Than Funky

5.11+:  Living Conjunction, Hidden Arch, Spider Line, Big Bobs Big Wedge, Hyperion, Morongo Man

5.12:  Emotional Rescue, Throbbing Gristle, Equinox

5.12+:  Acid Crack, Asteroid Crack

5.13: The Persian Room, Moonbeam Crack

5.13+: Stingray

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Alex Fyfe wrote:

Hey Guys!

So I'm Moving to Vegas this summer and expect myself to be visiting J-Tree quite often as I will be less than 3 hours away, but since I've never been there before I have very little knowledge of the area or the climbs. That being said I figured I'd hop on MP to get a head start on my todo list, so if you guys would be so kind to recommend some of the best, or your favorite, crack climbs and maybe some test pieces of the area that would be super helpful.

What I'm looking for is fingertip to offwidth cracks ranging from 5.9 to 5.13.

Thanks guys, and I hope to se some of you out there!

Which ones did you come up with before you posted this question? Which ones looked the best in the guidebook or on MP to you? You have researched it on your own, right? Right?


Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60
Alex Fyfe wrote:

What I'm looking for is fingertip to offwidth cracks ranging from 5.9 to 5.13.

Wow, could you narrow it down a bit for us?  

Josh Hutch · · State of Jefferson · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 90

J-Tree, Red Rocks, and North Carolina....? Have you even looked for any yourself or just letting other people pick your routes? 

Chris Re · · Boise, ID · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 15
Jeremy Cabrera · · Pinon hills · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

Imaginary voyage is a must do. Always looking for new people to climb with. I also have a guide book. Ive done multipule routes there. 

Soulless Ginger · · San bernardino · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 5

what's the best food in a supermarket? looking for food ranging from vegetables to dark meat

Jeremy Cabrera · · Pinon hills · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0
Soulless Ginger wrote:

what's the best food in a supermarket? looking for food ranging from vegetables to dark meat

Ribeye steak broccoli


Mike Brady · · Van Diesel, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 668
Russ Walling wrote:

Off the top of my head-ish:



5.11+:  Living Conjunction, Hidden Arch, Spider Line, Big Bobs Big Wedge, Hyperion, Morongo Man

If BBBW is 5.11+ I will never climb 5.12 

Russ Walling · · www.FishProducts.com · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 3,231
Mike Brady wrote:

If BBBW is 5.11+ I will never climb 5.12 

Yeah.... 11D++ on that one

Molly May · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 5

If you can pull off J Tree 5.13 in the summer, hats off to you...

Greg Opland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 167

I've climbed in Josh every month of the year, but last summer was the worst. Climbing in the shade at 6am, covered with sheets of sweat at the top of a route, dripping all over the place. It can get pretty grim out of season. Rubber gets greasy, fingers get sweaty. But you don't have to wait in line!

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

Welcome.....To almost California. 

Do not pass up going to New Jack City while traveling from LV to Josh. 

Russ has a pretty good list going....  I would add:

The Right O'Kelleys crack and the Right and Left Mel cracks....   and do not skip "Energy Crisis" ... a closed climb for totally made up BS.

Russ.... 5.10d: Perpetual Motion.......    what did something change???   I always thought that was the best 5.9 in the park.

As you can tell, most people skip climbing in Josh during the summertime. With so many great places to climb at during the summer I too wonder why some choose to suffer and sweat it out.

You will find that the Sierra East side is not a bad drive.... Look up Cardinal Pinnacle... and also "the Whale/Bony Fingers" at Whitney Portal. 

Have fun 




Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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