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Best Crack Climbs In North Carolina


Original Post
Alex Fyfe · · Summerlin, NV · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Hey guys, 

I'm going to be driving through NC in the middle of March and would like to make a pit stop to do some climbing for a few days. I've been doing some of my own research but I thought I'd ask the community if they could point me in the direction of some awesome cracks in the area. Everything from fingertips to offwidths, 5.9 to 5.13 would be awesome, thanks a bunch guys!

Alexander Blum · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 132

Where in NC?

Shredded Wheat (11a) & Hickory Nutcracker (10+), Rumbling Bald. Both of these routes very much feel like they belong in Yosemite. Shredded wheat is near about four other good crack climbs that range from 5.7 to 5.10

The Womb (11a), The Seal (10a), Invisible Airwaves P1 (10c), Looking Glass North Side. The first two have 'body english' cruxes, the third is a great splitter in a corner.

The Fat Lady (11-) & variations, Hawksbill. Great area for steep, pumpy climbing.

The Open Book (11b) & Turkey Beard (12a), Linville Gorge Amphitheatre. Amazing position, no crowds

Wild Kingdom (11d R), Moore's Wall (stretching the definition of crack here, but world class 2 pitch route). Moore's Wall in general is very unique, and the Fire Wall (where WK is) has some absolutely spectacular routes)

Not a crack, but climbing at your level my target would be Whitesides. Adventure trad with just the right amount of spice, grades from 10+ to 12+.

If you need a partner, let me know. 

Hopefully ABG, nbrown or one of the other hardpeople will chime in with some good recommendations as well.


Alex Fyfe · · Summerlin, NV · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Wow! 

Thanks Alexander, that's an awesome list already and I'm excited to start checking them out. 

But as far as where ill be, my destination is SC so I can really head anywhere in NC.

Also I will be in just over the border in SC for a few months and plan to make a few trips back up to NC before I head out to NV, and would love to get together and do some climbing.

Jack Strifling · · Lexington, KY · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Great list from Alexander above.  

Just to add a few more:  

Cornflake Crack + The Womb + Safari Jive is a proud day at the north side of Looking Glass.  P2 of Cornflake is awesome splitter crack climbing.  Whitney's Excellent Route is good and wild too.   

Also at Rumbling is the classic hard crack Hanging Chain.  Spry Look and Battery Brides are just next door and also fantastic (face climbs).  Shredded Wheat and Capt. Crunch are both incredible splitters.  But Rumbling Bald may be a little warm for hard climbing in March.  I wouldn't go on a hot day.  

Almost everything at Shortoff in Linville is really good (but not so much pure crack climbing).   

I agree about Fat Lady/Encore at Hawksbill.  It's about as fun as it gets for a short route in NC.  Ice Cream Direct is also supposed to be quite good but I never tried it.    

I also agree about Whiteside.  Check out Whipping Boy and Volunteer Wall.  

Brian Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 478

Lots of good suggestions here. I'll add Linville River Crag to the list of possibilities. The approach/return is roughly comparable to Shortoff but in reverse. Maybe a little easier, as there's no stupid gully. It's the same sort of rock as Lower Hawksbill, aka my favorite rock in the state. It's also right next to a beautiful stretch of the Linville River and plenty of world class bouldering

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107636580/jackpot

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107636552/garden-variety

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107636571/clever-corner

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106464816/vaseline-machine-gun

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107636586/tightsqueeze

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107197095/bad-monkey


Also at Rumbling Bald:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107947203/kennedy-space-port 

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107026281/58-crack 

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105899306/frosted-flake 


Matt Munkittrick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Harpoon is a nice 10a diagonal finger crack at Ship Rock. 

It is right off the parkway and is a nice stop if you are passing through the high country.


Alexander Blum · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 132

Brian I have been looking for someone to go do Kennedy Space Port with . . .

All my friends hate offwidths :(

Brian Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 478

https://www.instagram.com/p/_Ijy-ArgD4/

I want to go back and do it again. I had carpal tunnel surgery last week on my left hand, and my right hand is next. This is going to be a rehab year with plenty of farting around on the computer


Alexander Blum · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 132

That's a bummer - hope it heals up quickly. I guess that's what happens when you place to many cams. I hear nuts are much easier on the wrists.

I absolutely love how supportive your peanut gallery is in that video.

Billy Danger · · Asheville, NC · Joined Mar 2005 · Points: 232

How about the Supercrack of Linville...

Supercrack

Pocket Lobster · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 0

T-Wall is also worth a stop on your way to NC's fine offerings.

Alex Fyfe · · Summerlin, NV · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0
  • Thanks Brian that is an awesome list with some killer lines on it. Kennedy space port and bad monkey look insane! Sorry to hear about your wrists I hope they heal up and you can get your send. Also that video looks intense! Thanks again for the suggestions.
Brian Abram wrote:

Lots of good suggestions here. I'll add Linville River Crag to the list of possibilities. The approach/return is roughly comparable to Shortoff but in reverse. Maybe a little easier, as there's no stupid gully. It's the same sort of rock as Lower Hawksbill, aka my favorite rock in the state. It's also right next to a beautiful stretch of the Linville River and plenty of world class bouldering

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107636580/jackpot

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107636552/garden-variety

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107636571/clever-corner

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106464816/vaseline-machine-gun

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107636586/tightsqueeze

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107197095/bad-monkey


Also at Rumbling Bald:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107947203/kennedy-space-port 

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107026281/58-crack 

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105899306/frosted-flake 



Alex Fyfe · · Summerlin, NV · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0
Alexander Blum wrote:

Brian I have been looking for someone to go do Kennedy Space Port with . . .

All my friends hate offwidths :(

Kennedy Space Port looks like a killer line that I would love to jump on if you still need a partner when I'm down.

Ben F · · Benfield, Kolorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 370
Pocket Lobster wrote:

T-Wall is also worth a stop on your way to NC's fine offerings.

This is correct.  The T-Wall shouldn't be too hot in March, but the ticks may be out.  Go anyway.

In addition to going to the north side of the Glass, the Odyssey is a nice climb on the Sun Wall of the Glass. 

Alexander Blum · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 132

I agree, T-Wall can't be beat anywhere outside of Indian Creek for high concentration of quality splitters. Points of Contact is one of the best 10c routes I have done anywhere.

Ben F · · Benfield, Kolorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 370
Alexander Blum wrote:

I agree, T-Wall can't be beat anywhere outside of Indian Creek for high concentration of quality splitters. Points of Contact is one of the best 10c routes I have done anywhere.

Agree about PoC.  Stone Wave is also a must (it's cheating to stick clip a nut : )), as are Pursuit of Excellence, Golden Locks... never mind... too many to name.  Ha.

Stop at Shuford's on the way out.  The Chatty hipster climbers don't like it. That means it's good.

Jim Corbett · · Keene, NY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 10
Ben F wrote:


Stop at Shuford's on the way out.  The Chatty hipster climbers don't like it. That means it's good.

yeah; what’s up with that? Sux what has happened to Chattanooga, wanna be Boulder East. Just what the world needed. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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