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What is your Favorite 12a sport route?


the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 110
George Perkins wrote:

Pegasus! I climb it every time I go to Monster Wall, and almost listed that one, but just couldn't do it because of the shit-chimney section.  It was my first 12 (arguably soft).  I'd say the most frequent "1st 5.12" for climbers living in my town is Against Nature (even if you count Moat Jump as a 12a.)

40-Love is good, though I'd think most consider it 12b.  If we're counting 12b's... Jabberwocky at Enchanted Tower would be the best I've been on in NM.

True to all of that!  Dare I say though that Crimp Chimp and Little Evil, both good routes, may be the easier 12- options at The Dungeon?

Jon Frisby · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 130

another Wind and Rattlesnakes vote. Also To Be or Not to Be in the Gunks (haven't led it)

MisterSir · · Back of my truck · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 260

RRG:

- Check your Grip 

- Twinkie

-Magnum Opus

-Dogleg

-Scar Tissue

TS:

-Mufassa

-If Dreams Were Thunder

NRG:

-Lost Souls

-Pyscho Wrangler

Shelf:

-Nyoragi

-Freeform

Maple: 

-49

Julius Grisette · · Carbondale · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 5
Jerry432 wrote:

The tower has some bad ass 12s in my opinion and 11's for that matter.  

What besides Golden staircase?

Jerry432 · · odessa texas · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 10
Julius Grisette wrote:

What besides Golden staircase?

 That entire area titled "Enchanted Tower" is littered with great climbs, and yes the tower proper is also filled with sweet 11's and 12's. 

coldatom · · Cambridge, MA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 70

People seem to love Flesh for Lulu at Rumney, though I've never made it past the first crux.  

It is a quite beautiful progression of difficulty as you ascend.

Stephen Lander · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11

A Couple more great RRG 12a's:

Grim Reaper - Tough crimpy boulder problem leads to 100 feet of big beautiful moves on jugs, red point crux near the top. (Miller Fork)

Break The Scene - Weird and powerful moves up a bolted crack/dihedral (PMRP)

The Gift - Long, technical, and delicate, with a few power moves thrown in (North Gorge)

Delicatessen - Hidden gem at the Solarium. Huge juggy roof climbing to a sequential boulder problem crux right before the easy headwall. (Muir Valley)

Wearing Out My Welcome - Low boulder problem crux on a striking arete, fun overhanging dihderal above. (PMRP)

Gluttony - 3 bolts of slab, into a dihedral, into awesome overhanging pockets (PMRP)

BONUS: Far From God - 12b, but pretty soft. 85 feet of classic RRG "jug" haul with lots of hidden rests (PMRP)


Josh Squire · · East Boston, MA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 66

Wild Rumpus - Shell Pond, Stow ME

The Big Rip - Sundown Ledge, Albany NH

Blackwater - Squamish BC

Peanut Man - Rumney, NH

The Gift - RRG

Twinkie - RRG

Out of Sticks - Railay, Thailand

Jerry432 · · odessa texas · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 10
bruno-cx wrote:

The "Enchanted Tower" is overrated jug hauling.  Some of the softest 12a's I have ever climbed.  The tower would have better climbing if all of the pockets were filled in with SIKA and replaced with Yaniro holds. 

Well tell us how you really feel. 

the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 110

Bruno is right.  The Tower is awful. After a two hour drive over a mountain with giant, loose boulders, you arrive in a valley choked by dust, flies & infinite piles of poo left by hordes of gumbies from Phoenix. It is really an awful place, and folks should avoid it. 

If you do go, keep in mind that your car will probably break down, and you will be devoured by roaming feral ranch dogs, or you will make it in, only to die of dysentery. 

Jerry432 · · odessa texas · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 10
the schmuck wrote:

Bruno is right.  The Tower is awful. After a two hour drive over a mountain with giant, loose boulders, you arrive in a valley choked by dust, flies & infinite piles of poo left by hordes of gumbies from Phoenix. It is really an awful place, and folks should avoid it. 

If you do go, keep in mind that your car will probably break down, and you will be devoured by roaming feral ranch dogs, or you will make it in, only to die of dysentery. 

this is got damn mutiny!! jk I see what's going on here, that place sucks and needs to be avoided at all cost. Please forgive my false opinions and know that place needs to be closed to the public.  

Julius Grisette · · Carbondale · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 5
Jerry432 wrote:

 That entire area titled "Enchanted Tower" is littered with great climbs, and yes the tower proper is also filled with sweet 11's and 12's. 

I was asking for specific routes. It's a 45 minute drive from datil that a prius could make. Get over yourselves. 


Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 2,800
Hank Caylor wrote:

"Cookie Monster", Cookie Cliff in Yosemite

"Chains of Love", Fern Canyon in the Flatirons

"Hang 'Em High", Rifle


Downgrading Hang Em High to 12a now? 

Nate Keikiokaaina · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0
Julius Grisette · · Carbondale · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 5
bruno-cx wrote:

Hi Juluis, 

Hope you are not driving in the "short/old way" with a prius it only makes matters worse for locals and pisses of the landowner even more.

Please see the following page for the correct way to access the crag.

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105789938/enchanted-tower

Thanks :)



Negative. Going in the "heinous 4x4 road over mountain" is just a hop and a skip from the highway. Not crazy gnarly like I was led to believe before going. I understand the place has seen serious misuse over the years, but thats no reason to post false information everywhere. 

All of your shit beta does nothing to help the community Mr. BrunoTroll

MorganH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 170
bruno-cx wrote:

The "Enchanted Tower" is overrated jug hauling.  Some of the softest 12a's I have ever climbed.  The tower would have better climbing if all of the pockets were filled in with SIKA and replaced with Yaniro holds. 

That's like...just your opinion, man.

Jerry432 · · odessa texas · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 10
MorganH wrote:

That's like...just your opinion, man.

The dude abides 

the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 110
bruno-cx wrote:

Someone is a little defensive today.  Hard time pooping?  

The road condition can change from season to season.  I prefer to drive something with a low gear for the steep section and bit of ground clearance for the one weird deep chunky spot.  You run the risk of doing damage to the undercarriage of the vehicle without adequate ground clearance. 


...& damage to the road caused by spinning wheels. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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