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Tahquitz - Weather/ Is the loose Block still on Fingertrip?


Original Post
David Rozul · · San Diego · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 10

My partner and I are planning to get out to Tahquitz this weekend and climb Fingertrip 5.7. Two questions for anyone who may have been in the area lately

1. Does anyone have an update on conditions in Tahquitz? has anyone climbed there recently?

2. We saw the latest on MP about a loose block 11/25/17: "BEWARE OF A LOOSE BLOCK on the left side of the ledge at the top of pitch 1" anyone know if this is still there and it's status? 

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105798877/fingertrip 

Dude Abides · · SoCal · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 1,355

Short Blizzard in Idy last Sat. Keep an eye on the weather. Use national weather service (gov) forexcellent weather. This week is looking to dry up perhaps... 

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?CityName=Idyllwild&state=CA&site=SGX&textField1=33.74&textField2=-116.718&e=1#.WmaPtWKIaEc

Go for fingertrip. There are loose blocks all over Tahquitz. Fingertrip is a clean route because it gets so much traffic. At the very end of P1 just be very alert and heads up, getting to the obvious ledge with a tree to belay after the pitch ends is a very very short section and there are alternate holds to easily maneuver around. Basically don’t pull on anything that looks like a block there.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,455

I was up there Saturday in the snow, not much came down, maybe an inch, any place that gets good sun will be void of snow but finger trip is pretty shady most of the day, you will be better off on Jensen's or ski track.

The blocks on the finger crack are easily avoided on finger trip, just stay in the corner straight up to the tree.

David Rozul · · San Diego · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 10

Thanks David and Tradiban! Appreciate the beta! 

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,455

I just ordered a new weather cam for climbidy.com but in general in Idy anything that gets sun most of the day will be climbable, but the S side of Tah might be hard but never impossible to get to because of snow build up on the trail. Lots of Suicide are pleasant all year long, especially sunshine face.

Colin Yinzer · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 50

David - - I've had a few fun & pleasant trips to Tahquitz in both December and January the past few years. Dry trips, and ones where you needed pons/over the ankle boots due to snow, but the rock was dry.

Tradiban is right that Ski Track might make for a better experience, because you'll get sun. I remember climbing fingertrip once shoulder-season and the first pitch was dry, and the second-pitch, but we didn't realize the 3rd pitch undercling/cruxes were basically seeping a bit. It became a bit more heady and not that enjoyable. I've also been COLD on that route even in non-winter months. The wind curls around the rock there. It helps to rock a beanie under your helmet (if you wear one)

Suicide is also a good tip, its warmer and drier in the winter than Tahquitz rock itself, getting first-light sooner. I would just say bring warm layers if you go, and a bit of an apetite for adventure. 

Cole D · · Los Angeles · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 5

Getting in on this thread. Has anyone been up recently? 

The weather forecast looks really good right now, just don't know what conditions are like on ground/rock. 

I have only led on white maiden and trough so I'm looking to get some more baby trad experience in on that side of the rock. 

Any intel or tips appreciated!

Ryan Strickland · · Idyllwild, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 127

Unless you're heading left of White Maiden, the rock is completely dry except for a few ledges where there can be some minor runoff. As of 2/5/18 White Maiden, Angel's Fright, and the Trough are completely free of water and snow on route. There is a good pile of snow at the base of Dave's Deviation and Human Fright. There was some ice on the lowest part of Pine Tree Ledge where you come in from the second pitch of Jam Crack, you could probably get around it if needed. The main two levels of Pine Tree Ledge were dry. All of Lunch Ledge was dry.

I was comfortable in pants and a t-shirt this afternoon, but I was moving non-stop. I recommend you bring a light jacket. You won't see any sun on the Trough or Angel's Fright until right at sunset.

Get on it before the climate realizes it's supposed to be winter! 

Cole D · · Los Angeles · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 5

wow, thats amazing, thanks so much Ryan!

how was friction descent? same as always or down climbing with ice tools and crampons   ?

Ryan Strickland · · Idyllwild, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 127

Friction descent is dry throughout. Now you have no excuse, you've got to climb!

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

Snow at the base of Dave’s is no big deal, just chop steps with a rock like a man #localbetabraj


Cole D · · Los Angeles · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 5
Ryan Strickland wrote:

Friction descent is dry throughout. Now you have no excuse, you've got to climb!

True! Although half my outdoor/climb buds can't lead belay, and the rest have work type conflicts this month. Looks like it may be time to start creeping through the partner forums!

Rich Welker · · Riverside, CA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 145

Conditions were terrible. I had to wear my puffy once while belaying today.
Cole D · · Los Angeles · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 5

anyone have more recent conditions available?

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,455

New weather cam on Suicide at climbidy.com

Can't put a cam on Tahquitz because the sun shines it out.

Suicide def all climbable and Tahquitz over to Trough, maybe not Angels fright. There will be some snow at the bases of climbs but almost always passable.

Forever Outside · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 240
Tradiban wrote:

New weather cam on Suicide at climbidy.com

Can't put a cam on Tahquitz because the sun shines it out.

Suicide def all climbable and Tahquitz over to Trough, maybe not Angels fright. There will be some snow at the bases of climbs but almost always passable.

BOLTING SEASON IS HERE.       jk   jk    jk  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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