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Revo a good device for begginers?


Original Post
Clayton Marzo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

I just started at a climbing gym about a month ago and I wanted to get into crag climbing. I bought some good shoes but now I just need to get a harness, locking carabiner, rope, and most importantly a good belay device. I don't really have that many friends that climb? How do you find a belay partner. I was thinking I could just show up to the crag and ask someone to belay me, but not sure on the proper etiquette. Either way it would be safer than trying someone new. I figure, if I get a foolproof belay device like the revo, maybe it would be safer to trust a stranger? I know that being a good climber doesn't mean you will be a good belayer, so I will look out for the people who use proper belay technique. Also since the revo works like a normal belay device and not the Grigri(which I have been told is infamous for lowering accidents) It should be easy for a random climber to belay me without practicing first on the device. Plus it is basically fall-proof since it will lock up no matter what. I also plan to use the approach that I am basically "free soloing" so that way I never truly rely on the rope. Does this work in the real world?

Michael Hase · · San Jose, CA · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 506

There are some apps to find climbing partners in your area. One decent app is called "climb buddy". You can also try using the partner finder on MP. Sometimes local gyms have get togethers to meet other people to climb with. I started out using a BD ATC and then after a bit bought a GriGri 2. So far I haven't had a problem with my GriGri 2. They built in a feature that if you pull the lowering lever too hard it locks up so you don't send your partner flying down to the ground. I would take the time to read reviews on gear institute and outdoor gear lab in addition to going into the pro shop at the gym or REI to talk the staff there. 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195

Assuming this isn’t trolling, which it hopefully is...

No, no and no. The Revo is a brand new device that most people have never (and probably will never) use.  It is not foolproof, nor are any other devices for that matter.  You will be much safer belayed by somebody using a device they’re familiar with.  There is absolutely nothing wrong with Grigris; in fact, they’re probably still the safest devices you can use, but again it’s the belayer that matters, not the device.  I’d recommend either hiring a Guide or finding competent people at your gym if you want to climb outside.  Your first outdoor climbing experience shouldn’t be with random strangers you met at the crag.

rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 50

Could be trolling, but if it really Clay Marzo I could see this as a earnest question. Clay is an awesome surfer, one of the worlds best FYI. Maybe got sick of not being recognized because he doesnt win competitions but is actually way better of a surfer than a lot of the dudes that do win

Chris Fedorczak · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

If you've only been climbing indoors for a month, I would suggest that you try to partner up with someone from your gym with a little outdoor experience who doesn't mind taking you out to a local crag, setting up top ropes, and letting you climb. Or you could always try to sign up for a guided outing through your gym, local REI/climbing store, or alpine/rock climbing club.

You don't want to show up at a crag and try to join a random group of people if you have zero outdoor experience and have only been climbing for a month. That would be a huge red flag to any group who might consider letting you join them in the parking lot. 

Also, IMO I want my belayer to use whatever device THEY are most comfortable with. If I trust them to belay me, I trust them to chose the device of their choice. If I don't trust them, no device changes that fact. 

Finally, no belay device is fool proof, and you should learn proper technique regardless of what device is being used. I started out on an ATC, but now prefer a Grigri 2 for everything but multipitch. All devices are safe if you use proper technique. All devices can fail if you don't. I'm sure even the Revo's has modes of potential failure, but I have no personal experience to justify this opinion. 



King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430

1/10

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 420

Elements of a good troll should be treated like juggling balls; The more elements the greater the act but also the more skill and subtlety that is required to pull it off. 

jg fox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5
King Tut wrote:

One of the world's best surfers knows what a "kook" is and wouldn't be asking noob questions on the internet.


1/10

You're right for the wrong reasons. I'm inclined to give 3/10.

OP, your trolling efforts would bare more fruit over here

Auden Alsop · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 10
jg fox wrote:

You're right for the wrong reasons. I'm inclined to give 3/10.

OP, your trolling efforts would bare more fruit over here

I'd actually be interested in seeing what the Taco would do to him. I'd give 2/10 for the free soloing addition.

Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 96

Clay!!! I own your fins man! They rip and now I do too!!

rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 50

Could be a troll, but Clay Marzo is a very earnest person. Could be for real, who knows. 

jg fox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5
Auden Alsop wrote:

I'd actually be interested in seeing what the Taco would do to him. I'd give 2/10 for the free soloing addition.

With all the virtue signaling, politi-tard threads, and ethic lynch mobs; I believe this troll could rile them up.

OP, go over to Supertopo and register as “Jared Kushner.”

Auden Alsop · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 10
jg fox wrote:

OP, go over to Supertopo and register as “Jared Kushner.”

LOL!

Auden Alsop · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 10

If this isn't a troll, which I doubt, Ted and Chris answered your question pretty well OP.

Jim Turner · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 305

That’s a lot of buzzwords, jokes and debate triggers in one paragraph.


-Foolproof belay device

-Fall proof belay device

-Deadly GriGri

-Asking random belayers to use YOUR device of choice, without practice, in the name of safety 

-Good climbers don’t necessarily mean good belayer

-Gym to crag

-Have shoes.  Now just need (everything else)

-Free soloing until comfortable with belayer

-and more


Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 96

Imagine that though! Marzo is such an eccentric. He does the same tricks over and over in surfing but they’re the most bad ass and impossible tricks that no one does quite like him. And he lands them most of the time. If he were climbing he would maybe just dyno from hold to hold and campus his climbs in a way no climber has done before. 

  Also, speaking of eccentrics, does anyone have any examples of climbers that are autistic but climb extraordinarily well. I find it so fascinating and uplifting seeing the success their able to achieve. 

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 6

Welcome Clay.  If you tackle climbing like surfing you'll do very well.

Can the troll police lighten up just a bit.  Sheesh.

Aidan Raviv · · South Pasadena, CA · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 100
Michael Hase wrote:

There are some apps to find climbing partners in your area. One decent app is called "climb buddy". You can also try using the partner finder on MP. Sometimes local gyms have get togethers to meet other people to climb with. I started out using a BD ATC and then after a bit bought a GriGri 2. So far I haven't had a problem with my GriGri 2. They built in a feature that if you pull the lowering lever too hard it locks up so you don't send your partner flying down to the ground. I would take the time to read reviews on gear institute and outdoor gear lab in addition to going into the pro shop at the gym or REI to talk the staff there. 

Gri 2 doesn't have antipanic. You may mean the plus? Just don't want people getting confused.

Jim Turner · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 305
Clayton Marzo wrote:

since the revo works like a normal belay device... It should be easy for a random climber to belay me without practicing first on the device. 

Probably your best joke.  Clever in its subtlety.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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