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Upcoming training round table at the BRC


Original Post
Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 574

Next week (Jan 17th, 7PM) the Boulder Rock Club is having a roundtable discussion with some really great folks- Mark Anderson, Justen Sjong, Brent Apgar, Peter Beal and Dr Stacy Soappman.

You can suggest questions in advance via a google doc.

I have submitted mine, but I'm sure some of you guys can come up with questions that are even more interesting.

https://www.facebook.com/events/574772302866901/

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 574

Bump


Mike Kane · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 65

Any chance this is going to get recorded?  Sounds interesting.  Edit: nevermind, should have followed the facebook link first

aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 294

Bump again. It's happening tonight.

Dan Austin · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0

Maybe I missed it from the Facebook link, but is there a replay available? Or anyone that attended live want to share a recap?

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 574

They recorded a podcast, not sure where it's going to be posted. Will lyk.

The roundtable was entertaining and pretty well done. No top secrets revealed, but worth hearing.

Some talk of continuing the series, maybe with a nutrition roundtable.

Dan Austin · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0
Mark E Dixon wrote:

They recorded a podcast, not sure where it's going to be posted. Will lyk.

The roundtable was entertaining and pretty well done. No top secrets revealed, but worth hearing.

Some talk of continuing the series, maybe with a nutrition roundtable.

Sounds good. Thanks!

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 574

Here's a link to the recording of the discussion.

From the Anderson brothers' page-

https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2018/02/05/podcast-panel-discussion-on-training/

Would be great to have some more of these.

Jon W · · Longmont Colorado · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 90
Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 574
Jon W wrote:

Your welcome, Jon, but most of the thanks should go to the coaches involved, Brent in particular for organizing and the BRC for hosting.

T G · · Colorado · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks, Mark, and to all of the folks (Dr. Brent, Justen, Peter, Dr. Soapmann, Mark Anderson, Tara, et al) for putting on this event and recording it. I wasn't aware of the event beforehand, so it's been awesome to listen in after the fact.

As someone who swam competitively from the age 7 until overuse injuries ended my career in college, I'm really concerned about the potential long-term physical and mental performance consequences that might be visited upon kids who are trained (and overtrained) so early in their lives. It's pretty amazing to see 12 year olds sending .13s in a training session at the gym, but I worry about how many of them are being set up for chronic injury or for 'burn out' that might affect their ability to appreciate climbing later in life. I don't know what the answer is, but it's good to hear the folks in the panel discuss it and take it seriously. I know from experience that the era of "if a lot is good, more is better" type of training needs to end and isn't good for kids over the long term.

Jon W · · Longmont Colorado · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 90

yes, thanks to all involved. Lots of good info. i really like the different perspectives offered.

Eric Carlos · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 40

Glad this is finally posted.  Thanks Brent and everyone that put it together.  Lets do more of these things.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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