Mountain Project Logo

Favorite Sportiva Shoe for ORG


Original Post
Adam P. · · San Jose, CA · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 310

What's your favorite La Sportiva shoe for climbing in the Owens River Gorge? I'm a 5.10 - 5.11 climber, and I've been climbing in Miura. I'm curious if the Genius, Testarossa, or the 'aki models would be better for climbing in the 5.11 range there. Thanks.

Salamanizer suchoski · · Janesville Ca. · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 2,970

Personally, I like climbing in the one that fits my tootsies! I've seen people climb 5.14 in their Mythos. All I can think of is, "they must have been a good fit" ;-)

phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 617

Shoe questions are always so interesting, and so complex.  What Salamanizer said is really the best answer.   For example, many of my friends rave about TC Pros for crack climbing, but I hate them.  They just don't fit my foot.  Since the answer will so much depend on the fit of the shoe on your foot, have you tried to answer this for yourself theoretically by using the comparison charts and specific side by side comparison function on the La Sportiva website? The "general" chart is interesting since it discusses fit in terms of volume and all day vs short term use. The side by side comparison function is interesting because you can see the lasts used, midsole construction etc. I mostly only buy La Sportiva shoes, but since 6-7 years might go by in between my shoe purchases and the models change over time, I usually review there, and then go out and find the specific models that look promising and try them on.

 Over the years of climbing in the Gorge (and when I used to climb the routes there at the 5.11 grade), on steeper routes what made a difference to me is the edging, whether the toe profile allows using the small pockets you find there, and the stickiness of the rubber.  (I always resole my La Sportivas with Stealth when the time comes).  But what made far more difference was how strong I was at the time!

The most fun way to find out is to buy at least one or two other models and compare them on a route you know well next time you go to the Gorge!  

mpech · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2
Adam P. wrote:

What's your favorite La Sportiva shoe for climbing in the Owens River Gorge? I'm a 5.10 - 5.11 climber, and I've been climbing in Miura. I'm curious if the Genius, Testarossa, or the 'aki models would be better for climbing in the 5.11 range there. Thanks.

the 5.11 climbing there is not particularly overhung, and the feet are not particularly small. I wouldn't go for a shoe that specializes in climbing really overhung stuff... the miura is fine. 

Adam P. · · San Jose, CA · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 310

Thanks for your replies everyone. 

Salamanizer - Thanks for the reply too. We've crossed paths a couple of times, and I've followed your trip reports on various forums. I've always admired what you've accomplished and your opinions. 

Phyl and mpech - Thanks for the confirmation too. 

Cheers, and see you at the boulders.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
Post a Reply to "Favorite Sportiva Shoe for ORG"

Log In to Reply