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Double slings on Cams?


Original Post
Sean Onasch · · fort collins · Joined May 2016 · Points: 80

I purchased a new set of Alien Revos and they were supposed to come with the extendable double sling 10" but instead I received just the standard sling. I'm looking to see if anyone has experience with using cams with double slings and if they would be worth swapping out for. I'm not looking to save a ton of weight by reducing the number of alpine draws but rather the convenience of being able to extend the draw without having to grab an alpine or quick draw. I know there will always be instances where an alpine is still needed, Thanks!

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 877

I switched from c4's to the new wild country.  I find the extendable sling quite useful.  It gives at least 3 new possible extensions.  

TaylorP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0
Greg D wrote:

I switched from c4's to the new wild country.  I find the extendable sling quite useful.  It gives at least 3 new possible extensions.  

what do you mean by 3 possible extensions?

Max Rausch · · Portland, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 130

Hopped on the dragon train for the extendable slings. All they're good for is pissing off your follower. 

David Hous · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 200

I have the WC cams with the extendible slings and I like them. I'm almost never happy clipping a BD cam without any draw or sling extension, but I would guess almost half the time I place the WC the extension with the racking biner is enough, especially on less wandering pitches.

Ronald B · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

My climbing partners have never complained about my dragons being extended... In fact the first time I climb with someone I'll show them how to unextend them efficiently and I've generally gotten good feedback.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 877

All cams you can clip directly to them.  


New option 1: extend sling for a few more inches of extra length.


All cams you can clip a quick draw to it.


New option 2:  clip quick draw to one part of the double sling and extend a bit more.


All cams you can clip a shoulder length sling.


New option three: clip shoulder length sling to one of extendable sling and extend it a bit more.


Just more options not totally necessary but I find it quite useful now that I'm aware of the additional options.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 484

I have extendable slings on a lot of my cams and I like 'em. For the rock that I climb, using just the extendable sling doesn't cut it, but many times I can do a extendable sling and a quickdraw where otherwise I would need a 30cm sling or alpine draw.

The extendable sling basically turns a quickdraw into a 30cm sling and a 30cm sling into an alpine draw. I can get away with having fewer alpine draws with a lot of extendable sling cams. They're also nice if the normal sling would put a carabiner over an edge, because typically extending the sling moves it far enough away from the edge.

That being said, I think the extendable slings that come with cams are too short. I like to tie my own extendable slings and make them longer and sometimes do a 3rd loop to get extra length without having the cam hang too low when racked.

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 124
Greg D wrote:

All cams you can clip directly to them.  

It's worth noting that a downside of the Dragon 2 and Demon 2 cams is that you can't clip directly to them.

I have a #5 DMM Dragon 2 and not being able to clip direct hasn't been a problem in practice. For some strange reason the majority of my falls are on this cam as well.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 484
David Kerkeslager wrote:

It's worth noting that a downside of the Dragon 2 and Demon 2 cams is that you can't clip directly to them.

I have a #5 DMM Dragon 2 and not being able to clip direct hasn't been a problem in practice. For some strange reason the majority of my falls are on this cam as well.

Not being able to clip directly into them isn't really an issue, though. You might lose a centimeter or 2 but not much because the stem much shorter than on a C4 or other thumbloop style cam.

If you're aid climbing and want  to get the highest possible clip in point, you can also extend the sling and tie an overhand on a bight and then you actually get a higher clip in point than the thumbloop on a C4

J Kuginis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

The thin slings on the dragons give the appearance of wear quite quickly. WC are thicker. I know I shouldn't but I still have many original BD slings on my cams that are over 10 years old. With the thinner slings on the newer cams I would replace quicker. I find manual knot s quite bulky and are not a fan so need to get them properly re-slung more often. Food for thought when you climb for a long time 

Nick B · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 61

Not sure where the meme of "your partners hate you" for dragons comes from.  I have never climbed with anyone that didn't love them.  My regular partner started buy his own.  I am sure some people dislike them.... but they are not hard to clean....

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 877
David Kerkeslager wrote:

It's worth noting that a downside of the Dragon 2 and Demon 2 cams is that you can't clip directly to them.

I have a #5 DMM Dragon 2 and not being able to clip direct hasn't been a problem in practice. For some strange reason the majority of my falls are on this cam as well.

 There is always someone that requires spelling out minutia or the obvious. I did not say clip to the thumb loop.  I said clip to the cam directly.  All cams have a sling.  All cams you can clip to directly without any addition draw/sling etc.  

Sean Onasch · · fort collins · Joined May 2016 · Points: 80

Seems that most people on here like the double sling option. It's worth noting that the alien slings are slightly longer as is without being extended which should help with potential walking. I'm just trying to decide if it's really worth sending back to Campsaver over 4 cams. I could always re-sling them in the future with double. What would Y'all do?

 
Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 286

I never found doubled slings to be useful.  They add maybe 2"?  Totally not worth taking the time to extend it for almost no difference.

Ronald B · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Extending dragons adds 5.5 inches by my measurement. I'll leave it up to you whether you find that amount useful.

Nick B · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 61

The WC slings are not long enough to make a difference in my use, but I find the dragons save me from using as many slings and draws.

ebmudder · · Bronx, NY · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 50
Pete Spri wrote:

I never found doubled slings to be useful.  They add maybe 2"?  Totally not worth taking the time to extend it for almost no difference.

It depends a lot on where you climb. If you're placing your cams in horizontals, frequently the carabiner will be either levering over the edge of a lip or in a position for the gate to be opened by friction against the rock. You can extend the placement of the 'biner with alpine draws or short slings,  but having this extra adjustability built into the protection makes it faster to clip and doesn't require additional gear.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,445
Sean Onasch wrote:

I purchased a new set of Alien Revos and they were supposed to come with the extendable double sling 10" but instead I received just the standard sling. I'm looking to see if anyone has experience with using cams with double slings and if they would be worth swapping out for. I'm not looking to save a ton of weight by reducing the number of alpine draws but rather the convenience of being able to extend the draw without having to grab an alpine or quick draw. I know there will always be instances where an alpine is still needed, Thanks!

Leave 'em. None of the extendable slings add enough length, add a legit Alpine sling if you think you need to. I should add that adding a standard length sling to your gear will lower the likelyhood off walking your cams in and ripping nuts.

Barry M · · WV · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

It is really going to depend on where you climb. At Seneca where I climb the most an extra 2-5.5" is not really going to do much. Pretty much everything there gets a 60 cm sling fully extended and sometimes a 120 cm. 



Sean Onasch · · fort collins · Joined May 2016 · Points: 80
Barry M wrote:

It is really going to depend on where you climb. At Seneca where I climb the most an extra 2-5.5" is not really going to do much. Pretty much everything there gets a 60 cm sling fully extended and sometimes a 120 cm. 



Yeah, that's where I am at with this. Here in Colorado, our routes tend to wander through broken crack systems and roofs where I feel a 60cm is needed. I could see myself in the middle of the route extending the cam sling and my partner saying " I'd extend that out a little more" lol. Only time will tell I guess. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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