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Ice climbing boots advice needed

Original Post
Hanna D · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

I'm looking to buy a proper pair of winter/ice climbing boots after a season with very cold feet in my summer boots and am in need of advice.  
I'll be using them for ice climbing in the Alps mostly, and probably later this winter some mixed climbing. So far I'm considering the Scarpa Phantom Tech, Phantom 6000, La Sportiva Batura and La Sportiva G5. I get cold feet (toes!) easily so I think a super-gaiter style boot would be best for me. The thing is that I'll have to buy to try, because there are no stores near me that stock these kinds of boots, and if they do not in my size (EU40). So I'm hoping to narrow it down a bit more because I can't really spend several thousands on ordering boots atm...

So yeah, question: How do these boots compare, fit/warmth/climbing ability wise? I read the la sportivas are narrower. Is this true? Are there other brands that sell warm ice-climbing boots with a narrower (or women's) fit?
Apologies for the many questions but I can't seem to figure this one out...

Jason4Too · · Bellingham, Washington · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

I was out in -15C weather last week with LS Nepal Evos and initially had problems with very cold toes, mostly on my right foot.  Half way through the day I pulled my boots off to wiggle and massage my toes back to life and carefully retied my boots a bit looser.  All problems solved after that and my feet stayed warm for the rest of the day!  I was only at the crag for belaying so a performance fit wasn't important to me but I also wasn't getting enough movement to keep my feet warm without the climbing.  You might keep that in consideration for any of your boot purchases and don't go for an over insulated boot to compensate because you'll lose feeling when you might really need it.

If you're climbing in the alps I suspect there will be stores near the climbing areas where you can try boots on and get some advice from the locals on what is suitable.  If you must mail order your boots my experience is that while LS has a reputation for being narrower the fit is drastically different between the different boots.  I fit very comfortably in my Nepals even though I have a wide forefoot and an even wider midfoot.  I typically have boot fit problems near the arch.  My Nepals fit me more comfortably than my Scarpa Charmoz.

I hope this helps.  Good luck finding boots and happy climbing!

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

 Get fitted for boots at a reputable shop when you get to your climbing destination. For example, if you live in Kansas but are traveling to Chamonix France, hit a shop in town before you hike or climb. A good boot fitter will know what model and size is best for your trip. The for sale thread here is full of people that bought boots from companies like

rocknice2 · · Montreal, Quebec · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,068

Scarpa Rebels, Phantom Tech and 6000 are wide. As well as the LS (men's)Nepal, Batura and G5.  Maybe the women's Nepals are narrower.?

For a narrow fit check out LS Trango, Arc'teryx Acrux AR.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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