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Red Rocks first trip


Original Post
Blakevan · · Dallas, TX · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 55

We will be there early Feb and would like suggestions for nice sport climbs from 5.8 to about 5.10c with short approaches.  Part of our group will be looking at Jack Rabbit Buttress but I'm iffy on anything trad over a 5.7.  I don't mind following up higher but our group already have their pairs worked out and everyone knows how much fun a party of three can be.  

Also, any beta on guide books would be mucho appreciated.  Is JERRY HANDREN book the best?  I've heard that MP is pretty good but I much prefer pretty pictures with lines then a text description and a maybe local who kind of knows the wall.  What climb is this?  

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Blakevan wrote:

We will be there early Feb and would like suggestions for nice sport climbs from 5.8 to about 5.10c with short approaches.

Pretty much all the sport climbing is centered at the first and second pull-outs and some in Calico Basin. Lots of different crags with varying approaches. At the grades you mention, you'll certainly be looking at the Panty Wall, Black Corridor, Magic Bus, Tuna and Chips area, Meet-Up Wall (a 40 minute slog of an approach though), and a couple of others. Put Big Bad Wolf at the Riding Hood Wall in Calico Basin on your list.

Blakevan · · Dallas, TX · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 55

Sweet, thanks to all.

dread-pirate-roberts · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 5

Handren's Guide is excellent (full color photos, great maps for approaches), but a lot of space is devoted to climbs that don't sound like they would match your stated goals (i.e. long approaches and more difficult).  Another option worth considering is Fun Climbs Red Rocks by Jason Martin.  This is nowhere near as exhaustive as Handren's guide but it does have some areas that have been bolted since Handren was published and it is a bit cheaper.  MP is also good for sport climbing beta.  

phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 617

Marc801, Just as people argue endlessly about the YDS and grade variation at various climbing areas, I think the definition of "slog" deserves the same scrutiny. Having done the approach to MeetUp, I personally would call that a pleasant 20 minute walk (and I'm a not very fit 65 yr old). Wouldn't we agree that a 40 minute slog would require at least 2000 ft elevation gain?

(Just having a little fun - Happy New Year!)

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
phylp wrote:

Marc801, Just as people argue endlessly about the YDS and grade variation at various climbing areas, I think the definition of "slog" deserves the same scrutiny. Having done the approach to MeetUp, I personally would call that a pleasant 20 minute walk (and I'm a not very fit 65 yr old). Wouldn't we agree that a 40 minute slog would require at least 2000 ft elevation gain?

(Just having a little fun - Happy New Year!)

Hmmm, well, *I* thought it was a slog! And it took us 63 yr olds a lot longer than 20 minutes! Compared to the approaches to Panty Wall, Black Corridor, Magic Bus, Sweet Pain, yeah, it is certainly approaching slog territory. 

[Disclaimer: we did it in September, when we were wilting in the afternoons in the sun - pretty damn toasty, so that may have had an impact as well.]

phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 617

I think you are right, Marc. Temperature is clearly one of the major determining factors of a slog!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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