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Advice for New Ropes!


Original Post
Michael Hase · · St. Louis · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 35

I'm having a hard time choosing between the Mammut Infinity Protect, Sterling Velocity, and the Edelrid Boa. I've heard great things about all of them but I'm still not sure which one I want. I do mostly sport climbing and the occasional top rope. I would say I am fairly rough on ropes so something durable would be great. Anyone have any input on these options?

David Hous · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 195

You will get every possible response here on MP!

FWIW I love my Mammut, I've had some problems with a Sterling, and I've heard good things about the Edelrid And you can save a few bucks on it.

Brad Johnson · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

Never had an issue with any of Mammut ropes - always my go to brand.  

Michael Hase · · St. Louis · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 35

David Hous wrote:

You will get every possible response here on MP!

FWIW I love my Mammut, I've had some problems with a Sterling, and I've heard good things about the Edelrid And you can save a few bucks on it.

Even though it is a 9.5 can it still take a good beating?

David Hous · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 195

My Mammut is a 9.5 Infinity and it looks pretty good after a year. I love having the 70m and the thinner diameter keeps the weight and bulk reasonable. If you are really looking for a workhorse I'd get a thicker rope though.

Rudy Chavira · · Taylorsville. Ut · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

David Hous wrote:

My Mammut is a 9.5 Infinity and it looks pretty good after a year. I love having the 70m and the thinner diameter keeps the weight and bulk reasonable. If you are really looking for a workhorse I'd get a thicker rope though.

Mammut gravity?

Bnice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Me and a couple other friends had problems with our Sterling Evolutions getting spongy after a while. My Edelrid boa eco is still in good condition after a year of use. My only complaint is it gets dirty real quick. Got the 9.8 mammut eternity recently and have loved its handling and suppleness. 

Nick M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

My Infinity 9.5 is probably the best, and definitely most durable rope I’ve owned. I have a Velocity and it’s decent but doesn’t handle like it used to. Only Elderid I’ve owned is the Swift which is a great alpine rope but I wouldn’t use for top roping. Mammut has been on long climbs, whipped on sport climbs, TR laps for the whole day, and still handles great. The bi-color is really worth the added cost imo, if the rope is going to last a while and still be in great shape, might as well be super easy to find the middle.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

If money is tight, the Boa is a great line. I have one as a loaner rope and it's 5 years old and still going strong. 

Imho, the Velocity is the best all around rope on the market in terms of durability, hand, and specs. It is pricey, though. I've never core shot one or managed to really beat one to the point of retirement. Mostly I replaced them because of the weight- they are a bit heavy. I climb on 9mm to 9.4mm these days. 

The infinity is a great line, and Mammut takes advantage of the 0.2mm variance rule with its ropes, so the infinity is probably more like 9.7mm. This also means it tends to be the most durable "9.5mm" on the market. I had one for years, gave it to a friend who took it up El cap a few times and a couple more years of beatings and then gave it away. It's probably still going somewhere. 


Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

Do not overthink it. Ropes are consumable material. Pick one which is on the best sale.

Lurk Zilla · · South Africa · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

Haven't used the other two, but currently using a Mammut Infinity Protect. Been beating it up on rough sandstone for two years now and it has been holding up very well.


Had a Mammut Transformer before that, Revelation before that. My next rope will definitely be an Infinity again. Exceedingly happy with it.

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

Pavel Burov wrote:

Do not overthink it. Ropes are consumable material. Pick one which is on the best sale.

I'm with Pavel, except to say that Mammut us definitely my favorite brand and I usually wait for one of their non-treated 9.8's to go on sale somewhere. The only thing you need a treated rope for is ice.

Lurk Zilla · · South Africa · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

Doug S wrote:

I'm with Pavel, except to say that Mammut us definitely my favorite brand and I usually wait for one of their non-treated 9.8's to go on sale somewhere. The only thing you need a treated rope for is ice.

I would disagree. I have the Infinity Protect 9.5mm which is 2 years old. 11 month ago a buddy bought the Eternity Classic (non-treated) 9.8mm. Now I know it's not an apples to apples comparison, but in those 11 months their team has done exactly the same mileage as me and my partner, route for route. Though the Infinity is a little dirtier, the non-treated Eternity has gotten just as worn/fuzzy in half  the time. Thus I'm a firm believer that the protect coating offers superior abrasion resistance.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

I have seen so many good ropes destroyed during an only TR attempt or a short multipitch lead by not that experienced leader. I have seen too many cheap shitty ropes survived several seasons of hard abuse. I have seen brand new expesive ropes been cut in halves by a disloged block on the first climb. I have seen cheap non-dry ropes in a good enough shape after seasons of mixed alpine climbing. You never know how it will turn.

It is better to be reach and healthy vs poor and sick. If you can afford any rope get the best (and be ready it could gone on the first weekend), if on the budget, get the cheapest one. Rope is just a rope. Skills are what pulling us up routes.

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

Lurk Zilla wrote:

I would disagree. I have the Infinity Protect 9.5mm which is 2 years old. 11 month ago a buddy bought the Eternity Classic (non-treated) 9.8mm. Now I know it's not an apples to apples comparison, but in those 11 months their team has done exactly the same mileage as me and my partner, route for route. Though the Infinity is a little dirtier, the non-treated Eternity has gotten just as worn/fuzzy in half  the time. Thus I'm a firm believer that the protect coating offers superior abrasion resistance.

Yes, I agree with you. In fact I think one of Mammut's treatments is specifically abrasion resistance, and they do make it last longer. But like Pavel says, the cost comparison.... I'd rather spend that extra buck (which is significant) on a new untreated rope and just use it up without worries, considering it just a consumable item. The only time you need dry treatment is for ice.

Joe Lindberg · · an asshole · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 65

Get the edelrid boa eco.  It's bluesign approved.

Kathy B. Thomas · · Sampson Street Broomfield · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

Hello mate,

All I would say is search these boards and absorb as much information as you can. Go get the Cpack software from the site, loads of useful information in there to get you going. Make a list of say 40 odd companies and ring them every week asking if they are needing any level 1's etc.

Eventually, perseverance will pay off and you'll get a start, took me a fair few months to get where I am now.

Hope some of that helps.

Scottmx426 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

Michael Hase wrote:

Even though it is a 9.5 can it still take a good beating?

My sterling also hasn’t seemed all that durable. And The mammut is a very popular rope for a reason, they are durable with good handling. Pavel also has a point. Your budget may come into play. And if you’re open to spending some money on other brands. Maxim makes 9.5 and 9.8 using their 1 over 1 weave (Glider and Pinnacle series). This creates a smoother sheath that in my experience is significantly more abrasion resistant.  My 8 year old maxim is in the same condition as my 2 y/o sterling with similar use. It’s a smooth feel and reduces drag but does sacrifice flexibility. It’s a stiff rope. 

Briggs Lazalde · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

You chose these options for particular reasons. What do you like about these ropes that has allowed you to narrow it down? Size? Cost? Etc.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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