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Replace hexes with Tricams on your rack?


Andy W · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 41
David Kerkeslager wrote:

your other options are don't fall

THIS!! I personally would rather pull on gear to PREVENT falling on questionable pieces as opposed to see a bolt go in. Of course every situation is different, but I default to the option that leaves no or less trace of our being there. Check out thread on french freeing to read or discuss my reasons behind choosing to pull on gear - link

Bill - As mentioned too many factors, but the first questions that come to me are: Where is the climb? Are there other bolts already within site or is the highway audible? Would this bolt be taking away from the route's experience, crag's landscape, or future access? Since there is gear available, is the C1 ascent really that atrocious until strength and skill can overcome the chance of falling on those moves? I believe only you as developer can assess and weigh all the factors and I'm sure you'll do right by your own route and ethics. I greatly appreciate that you consider the greater discussion on the topic before just drilling and asking questions later.

In the remote areas I like to climb I enjoy not seeing signs of other people, including bolts. I also enjoy a local crag that has very little fixed gear and appreciate it staying that way. Both allow me to climb in the same way as those before me. That said, there are many necessary bolts for safety, ie rapping or no natural pro available, and I have no problems with grid bolts at the car belay sport crags, if they pick up their trash when they leave!

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Its  not  really up to you  internet  heroes and tough guys.  A climb will  climb  by the  path of  least  resistance and if its hard  people  are  gonna  whip and  fix  gear. 

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Any of you  tough guys actually  climb???   Soloed a 1,000 ft.  Super  spicy  ice  climb  today.  We  had  over  2 inches of  rain  last  Friday and Saturday.  Things are comming  back  but it  looked a lot  better than  it  climbed.. lots of  funky  layers  and thin  spots.   My new  crampons are not  new  anymore....

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Bill.  Often the  difference between  a 5 star  classic  and a seldom  done  bag of poo  is a  single  bolt  ;)

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,460
Nick Goldsmith wrote: Any of you  tough guys actually  climb???   Soloed a 1,000 ft.  Super  spicy  ice  climb  today.  We  had  over  2 inches of  rain  last  Friday and Saturday.  Things are comming  back  but it  looked a lot  better than  it  climbed.. lots of  funky  layers  and thin  spots.   My new  crampons are not  new  anymore....

Make sure to take a pic of your dinner so we all know what ya ate.

Andy W · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 41
Nick Goldsmith wrote:Soloed a 1,000 ft.  Super  spicy  ice  climb  today.

Is this supposed to justify, explain, or prove something? I did 2800 vert today but who cares.

Nick Goldsmith wrote: Bill.  Often the  difference between  a 5 star  classic  and a seldom  done  bag of poo  is a  single  bolt  ;) 
Despite perceiving the first quote as nothing but arrogant spray, I actually agree SOMETIMES one bolt can be that difference but it can make the difference in BOTH directions. Of course this raises the question what makes classic vs bag o poo -- I ask rhetorically because you can use the search function and find ample threads discussing such at great and often worthless lengths.
Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Eliminate  just one of the bolts on th fa of the  BY   would  anyone  know or  care  that it exists ?

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,460
Nick Goldsmith wrote: Eliminate  just one of the bolts on th fa of the  BY   would  anyone  know or  care  that it exists ?

ADD one bolt on the BY, would it even matter?!?

Bill Lawry · · New Mexico · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,631

For the route I mentioned being developed, there are 5 or 6 whether-to-bolt decisions to be made.  Plenty of room for it to have a Nick Goldsmith pitch as well as an Andy W pitch. :)

Andy W · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 41
Bill Lawry wrote: For the route I mentioned being developed, there are 5 or 6 whether-to-bolt decisions to be made.  Plenty of room for it to have a Nick Goldsmith pitch as well as an Andy W pitch. :)

Sounds like a great compromise. Thanks for putting it up with thought!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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