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Lurking Fear - El Capitan, Yosemite - Beta


Original Post
Daniel Howe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

I’m planning a trip in late spring to Yosemite and am really hoping to have a go at this amazing route.

I'm wondering if anyone could help with beta?  Specifically, I would like to try free climbing as many pitches as possible, and the 2nd pitch as well as the later 7th pitch sounds really exciting.  

I’ve read both “Rock Climbing Yosemite Valley 2016”, and “Yosemite Free Climbs” (super topo), but am not getting much out of either, and nothing out of the former..The only clues I could find were Tommy and Beth’s highlights here: 

https://www.mountainzone.com/2000/highpoints/html/080300.html

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430

Post on supertopo...you'll likely find a number of guys/gals that have been up it over there.

Dave Alie · · Golden, CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 75

I'm afraid I can't be terribly helpful, but if I recall correctly, those are the crux pitches? I didn't free either pitch (I think both are 13c slab?), but was hanging on a line next to another climber going for the send on pitch 2. It looked nails hard. 

Again, maybe I'm wrong on these pitches but unless you have your valley style climbing ultra dialed and have been working the route, it seems like it might be more fun to spend some time flailing on the crack pitches. Pitch 4 goes around low 12 IIRC and pitch 5 is a super gorgeous 12b fingers-to-tight hands splitter. It was way faster for me to climb both of those C0, but I'd love to go back and try them- definitely curious how they climb if you're willing to report back!

Daniel Howe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0
Dave Alie wrote:

I'm afraid I can't be terribly helpful, but if I recall correctly, those are the crux pitches? I didn't free either pitch (I think both are 13c slab?), but was hanging on a line next to another climber going for the send on pitch 2. It looked nails hard. 

Again, maybe I'm wrong on these pitches but unless you have your valley style climbing ultra dialed and have been working the route, it seems like it might be more fun to spend some time flailing on the crack pitches. Pitch 4 goes around low 12 IIRC and pitch 5 is a super gorgeous 12b fingers-to-tight hands splitter. It was way faster for me to climb both of those C0, but I'd love to go back and try them- definitely curious how they climb if you're willing to report back!

You’re right as far as what I can tell in the guidebook. 

When I get out there, I’ll let you know about the whole route :)

Tony Lobay · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 493

Beware of broken and/or polished up holds. This route has seen a ton of aid traffic since Tommy freed it. You may find some of the stuff (the traverse P7?) and P 10-11 to be greasy/polished. I'd doubt the route has the same holds as when Tommy and Beth did it.

Have you done Freerider or Salathe yet? 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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