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Auto-Bailing as a Norm!


Original Post
Bill Lawry · · New Mexico · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,631

All this talk about auto-locking, assisted-braking, third hand, etc. has me thinking.  We should shift completely over to auto-bailing.

Why risk being up a multiple-pitch climb and hours from being on horizontal ground?  Just be ready to auto-bail!

What about the virtues of committing to climbing a vertical sea of rock, you say?  F that. And who cares if you've already been up the route a half dozen times and / or have written beta in exquisite detail.  Rig the sh*t out of the thing like an old-day FA, stringing rap lines from the base all the way up to your highest pitch.

When the urge strikes, just put all but the shirt on your back into a big extra-strong garbage bag, hang that sack from your last belay anchor, rap-rap-rap to the ground, and re-ascend the rope the next day that you think you've got the energy and inclination to make a little more upward progress.  Oh, and update community ethics to not touch temporarily-abandoned lines n gear; shouldn't be too hard to get a majority in favor.

Sometimes the urge to go down might come from the realization of the bad weather in the sky you never monitored or the forecast you never checked.  Or it could be a first-time partner you suspected was not experienced enough or prepared enough to do the climb with you in one go. Fair-weather climbers are nodding in understanding.

Instead, bring down the need for training, experience and commitment ten levels - the main things a partner needs to know are flawless high-angle rapping and rope ascent - if they're squeamish about rapping, throw in a rap backup hitch above or below the device to calm inexperienced nerves.

And is it the case that rap anchors for the auto-bailing option would use up all of your rack?  Bolt it, baby, bolt it!  We don't want auto-bailing to be just for folks with a sh*t load of money for the extra gear. And those bolted hangers will also work really well for when you choose to deploy the Firefly - banish the thought of rapping in from above to clean bail gear or, sigh, giving up some gear to the climbing gods.

tl;dr We need to reduce this whole endeavor down to the lowest common denominator of what seems on the surface to be doable by the untrained, inexperienced, and unprepared.  Well, that or shift the balance decidedly onto the side of survival by hiring someone capable.   Might the rate of helicopter rescues actually decline?

Dang, its' been too long since I climbed outside.  :-)

Greg Shea · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 10

10/10 would read rant again :)

Alex (spellstrike) Palmiter · · Duluth · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 21

Rap chains would last longer than fixed lines.

· · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

We need elevators put in, I would say stairs but that is to much work to walk back up.

Just think about it an elevator that takes you right to all the key pitches of the nose!!!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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