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SMC rap rings?


Original Post
Dead Head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 65

looked at some SMC rap rings the other day and questioned the integrity due to multiple fissures in the ring.  Anybody have experiences with them?

Roamin' Buffalo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 50

How about some more info? Looked at them on the shelf at your gear retailer? Looked at them attached to the 5 year old tat on that obscure, out of the way route that is constantly pelted by gravel sliding down from the ridge above? Those are standard fare up here in the pnw. Never had any reason to second guess one that looked like it was left within the last year or two. Edit: Also, when in doubt, replace. It's like $5 for a new fixe steel ring...

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,800

Not fissures. Those rings are rolled and you're seeing the edge of the Al sheet that it's made from.

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an… · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

14kn... the next time that ring looks sketchy remember it's as strong as anything on your rack 

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

I am guessing you're looking at these ones:


https://smcgear.com/descending-ring.html

If so, those guys are hollow (or so the ones I pulled apart were) and are basically a small piece of sheet metal rolled into a circle. They are really best suited for one-time emergency use and certainly should not be installed with the intention of using them permanently. I have pull tested a few that were left on an anchor for several years and they failed at unsafe levels. If you encounter some in the field you'd be doing everyone a solid replacing them with a stainless steel rap ring from Fixe which is only about $2.25 more expensive.

Dead Head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 65
20 kN wrote:

I am guessing you're looking at these ones:


https://smcgear.com/descending-ring.html

If so, those guys are hollow (or so the ones I pulled apart were) and are basically a small piece of sheet metal rolled into a circle. They are really best suited for one-time emergency use and certainly should not be installed with the intention of using them permanently. I have pull tested a few that were left on an anchor for several years and they failed at unsafe levels. If you encounter some in the field you'd be doing everyone a solid replacing them with a stainless steel rap ring from Fixe which is only about $2.25 more expensive.

Thats interesting 20kn.  Thanks for the info.  It turns out they were rolled aluminum.  Did they meet UIAA standards?

Bruce Hildenbrand · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 1,130

BTW, we always leave two at an anchor.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
Joe Lindberg wrote:

Thats interesting 20kn.  Thanks for the info.  It turns out they were rolled aluminum.  Did they meet UIAA standards?

There are no standards for rap rings.

M Hanna · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 5

Hey 20Kn

Would you have any details on your testing of the aluminum rap rings? They are quite common on older alpine and remote climbs around here, typically doubled up. Would be interested to see your data.

I have been replacing with the anodized Omega or SMC heavier rings on obscurities and SS Fixe or big quicklinks on more traveled routes.


Thanks,


Mark Hanna

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,800
M Hanna wrote:

Hey 20Kn

Would you have any details on your testing of the aluminum rap rings? They are quite common on older alpine and remote climbs around here, typically doubled up. Would be interested to see your data.

I have been replacing with the anodized Omega or SMC heavier rings on obscurities and SS Fixe or big quicklinks on more traveled routes.


Thanks,


Mark Hanna

Rap ring testing:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/567352/Pull-testing-a-SMC-Rappel-Ring

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

To avoid confusion, please stop calling those rolled aluminum rings rap rings - they are descending rings.

Dead Head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 65
Marc801 C wrote:

To avoid confusion, please stop calling those rolled aluminum rings rap rings - they are descending rings.

Whats the difference?

Will Ryan · · New England · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 520
Marc801 C wrote:

To avoid confusion, please stop calling those rolled aluminum rings rap rings - they are descending rings.

Rap means rappelling and you descend by rappelling they are the same thing

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 502
Will Ryan wrote:

Rap means rappelling and you descend by rappelling they are the same thing

He's being facetious. You've been trolled. 

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,800
Marc801 C wrote:

To avoid confusion, please stop calling those rolled aluminum rings rap rings - they are descending rings.

Can we call them top-roping rings instead?

Except I'd never use the plural, "rings", since we never double them up on our convenience anchors.

"First one up gets to the thread the rope through the ring. Then everyone gets three laps on the route."

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Joe Lindberg wrote:

Whats the difference?

Rap ring: beefy, solid, thick, 20kN

https://www.rei.com/product/745608/omega-pacific-rappel-ring

Descending ring: rolled aluminum, hollow, 14kN at best when new, wears very easily

https://smcgear.com/descending-ring.html

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Will Ryan wrote:

Rap means rappelling and you descend by rappelling they are the same thing

Look at the images I posted. They are two very different things.

Admittedly it doesn't help that newer climbers and some manufacturers or retailers use the names interchangably, but as a climber you need to know the difference. 

ebmudder · · Bronx, NY · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 50
Marc801 C wrote:

Rap ring: beefy, solid, thick, 20kN

https://www.rei.com/product/745608/omega-pacific-rappel-ring

Descending ring: rolled aluminum, hollow, 14kN at best when new, wears very easily

https://smcgear.com/descending-ring.html

Hi Marc: what was the circumstance for that hollow ring becoming worn like that? Is it for demonstration or is this from real-world use? 

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

Just Google "worn rap rings" and see the exciting photos of the shit people rap off!

ebmudder · · Bronx, NY · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 50
Jim Titt wrote:

Just Google "worn rap rings" and see the exciting photos of the shit people rap off!

Thanks Jim...I'm presuming this was a real-world ring that was cut off and replaced? just wondering how it got worn the exact same amount 180 degrees apart. 

[edit]--ok i see it's an old image...still curious as to how it gets worn like that...would not think it would be worn so evenly.

[edit edit]--and it appears this specific ring was worn by top-roping, not rapping...but the moral of course is don't take things on faith...

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 4,999

Please stop buying and leaving aluminum rings. I wish companies would stop making and selling them. (Here is looking at you REI) They are crap. The only excuse might be some long obscure alpine route where weight could be an issue and even there you are probably better off carrying an extra biner. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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