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Advice on intro for Sport?


Original Post
Kory McIntosh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Hey guys! I recently took a trip out to The Red with some friends and one of their older brothers who were experienced. We mainly boulder because living in Charleston, SC there is nothing but flat ground! We did alot of routes over the week and I think im hooked! I would love to get more practice in because all I have here is bouldering. I have most of the gear for Sport, but I am still confused on cleaning the anchor. If anyone has any advice on where I can go to get more experience, videos, or just meet someone that would be awesome! 

If anyone wants pictures I have a ton!

Thanks!

Andrew AJ Jackson · · Greensboro · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 1

Here's a video by the American Alpine club that will show you how to clean an anchor to be lowered as well as how to clean an anchor so that you can Rappel off of it. It's a good idea to learn both methods so that you have options depending on the nature of the anchor. Watch the video but make sure that you get some on the ground training from someone experienced enough to teach you the proper way to clean. Cleaning is a simple process but obviously very critical for your own safety.https://youtu.be/aDilZALfW9c

ViperScale . · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 240

Find someone who is experienced that you can climb with and they will teach you how to do things. If you have a gym around where you live spending alot of time there and you will probably find some people to help you. You can try to get books / watch videos is a good way to start so you have some kinda idea what the others are doing or will help you know what questions to ask but still recommend just finding a real person to climb with.

J-Moe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 20

Before you unclip your tether from the anchor (step 10 in that video, 8:13), fully transfer your weight to your rappel device. This way, if you've done something wrong, you'll only fall a couple inches back onto your tether, instead of all the way to the ground. Someone just died out in CO cleaning an anchor for the first time... Be safe out there

. · · Asheville NC · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 645

reading "Freedom of the hills" will be a great next step in your journey as a climber, almost certainly more info than you need right now but helpful none the less

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 30

Get a class from somewhere about anchors & safety & shits. There's a lot of crummy advice around and some dangerous practices... It's easy to lose sight of the fact that when you're cleaning an anchor 30m off the deck, if you fuck up you probably die, even though that's a basic manipulation while climbing.

Maybe check up accident reports: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/about_accidents (if you're a membre it's free). Otherwise in the forum there's one about injuries & accident.

Zane Winter · · Kansas City, MO · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 212

Find someone to go out with all the time. I climbed all last year with a very experienced partner and it really accelerated my learning curve.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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