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dreaming of summer...


Original Post
Sean M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 25

Ok I've been cooped up a little too much the past month with the onset of winter. I'm new to the northeast (formerly from NC), and haven't acquired the gear or motivation to get into winter stuff yet. 

So I've been plotting my goals for next summer, and wanted to see what were peoples's favorite trad climbs in the 5.10c to 5.11-easy range within 3 hours of Boston. I mostly day trip since I have some canine responsibilities at home, so I can't count on making many weekend trips out to the gunks. I'm trying to push into that range, so well-protected routes are preferred.

Only things on my radar so far:

VMC Direct and Duet Direct at Canon

Airation at Cathedral

I would particularly enjoy tips on some of the smaller crags that aren't as well documented. I would imagine there's some stuff that fits the bill at Farley for example, but I haven't been able to get any beta. I've done the moderate trad classics there like peapod, barndoor.

Here's to hoping its a short winter!

Tony K · · Pa · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Sorry to here you do not have winter gear but I’m 

DREAMING OF ICE so I want the long cold winter 

sara pax · · western mass/traveling · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 224

The 10+'s at farley are the Jury and Pinnacle Arete. Both are really great. Try and find TC Crack too. Go to Rose Ledge for a day and do Widow Maker (but keep in mind that it might have that name for a reason) and other 10s there like rhino dyno, Tennessee Flake, etc. 

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

Jane and Crow Magnon at Crow

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 10

There are some very good mixed and sport routes in your range at Farley too.  

Further North, I like South Buttress and CC Wall of Whitehorse - https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106673171/south-buttress and https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105946072/childrens-crusade

A crag in NH which deserves more credit is Sundown; trad, mixed, sport - https://www.mountainproject.com/area/107756087/sundown-ledge

There is also Green's (which I have never been, sadly) - https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106755845/greens-cliff  I expect the routes to be clean (enough), of quality, and equipped with good anchors, knowing MarkS,

And, thanks to the Access Fund, you are likely be able to check out Band M (more accurately B & M) now that its access has apparently been secured - https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106185604/band-m-opened-dec-2017 .  Not sure about the soundness of fixed gear however since it was closed to climbing for many years.

Bryce Adamson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 749
sara pax wrote:

The 10+'s at farley are the Jury and Pinnacle Arete. Both are really great. Try and find TC Crack too. Go to Rose Ledge for a day and do Widow Maker (but keep in mind that it might have that name for a reason) and other 10s there like rhino dyno, Tennessee Flake, etc. 

Where is TC crack? I hadn't heard of it before

sara pax · · western mass/traveling · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 224

Bryce Adamson wrote:

Where is TC crack? I hadn't heard of it before

Tiger Claw! Its second pitch off the ledge on the Soviet Bloc.

Sean M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 25
sara pax wrote:

I'll also look into Rose Ledge, I've never really heard it discussed.

Sean M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 25
Eric Engberg wrote:

Jane and Crow Magnon at Crow

Thanks! I've actually gotten on Cro Magnon on the sharp end already. I need to go back since I had to rest. I've TR'd Jane, but it felt super awkward and I remember distinctly thinking it wasn't something I was looking forward to leading. 

Sean M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 25
S. Neoh wrote:

There are some very good mixed and sport routes in your range at Farley too.  

Further North, I like South Buttress and CC Wall of Whitehorse - https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106673171/south-buttress and https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105946072/childrens-crusade

A crag in NH which deserves more credit is Sundown; trad, mixed, sport - https://www.mountainproject.com/area/107756087/sundown-ledge

There is also Green's (which I have never been, sadly) - https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106755845/greens-cliff  I expect the routes to be clean (enough), of quality, and equipped with good anchors, knowing MarkS,

And, thanks to the Access Fund, you are likely be able to check out Band M (more accurately B & M) now that its access has apparently been secured - https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106185604/band-m-opened-dec-2017 .  Not sure about the soundness of fixed gear however since it was closed to climbing for many years.

Sweet! Thanks for the tips, I've done some of the South Buttress, but have never been to Greens or Sundown.

sara pax · · western mass/traveling · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 224
Sean M wrote:

Thanks for the tips! Any more info on the Jury and Pinnacle Arete/TC Crack would be super appreciated! I did an arete at Farley this past summer that involved a 5.4/5.5 scramble up a wall pretty far to the right of Farley, and then maybe 2-3 bolts on a slab arete, followed by a ~5.8/5.9 crack. Does that sound like Pinnacle? 


I'll also look into Rose Ledge, I've never really heard it discussed.

Sounds like you did Militant lesbians on the Main Slab. The pinnacle is to the right of that up a rope ladder scramble. The jury is a couple climbs left of militant and goes up a big flair. PM me if you want any more beta .

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

winter is just starting, get some new toys :)
Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 1,454
Nick Goldsmith wrote:

winter is just starting, get some new toys :)

Not your best pic,butt shot showing a pack, stuffed with a puffy? i hope

 and this guy rocks hard and gets after it more than most any one who bothers to post So Say Thank You you cold blooded lizzards , that is some winter stoke

SKOLe NICK!

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440
Tim McGivern · · Medford, ma · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 11,305

This one of the best times of year to give your rope a break and go bouldering. I live in Medford and get outside a couple times a week this part of the year. Boulders tend to be dry (not seeping or covered in ice), and many winter days are superb conditions. Back to Trad....

The grade range you want (10+ to 11-) want is great around here. Plenty of options. Just do a quick search on here and you’ll have a huge list. Duet is on my target list. So is Lichen Delight and Crack in the Woods. Lots of others to be had. Did Robinson Crusoe last year and even though it’s short with a defined crux point, it’s really enjoyable. South buttress of Whitehorse has a handful in your range I think you’ll like as well. That’s early season stuff too. 

even closer to home, someone already mentioned Crow Hill, Rose and Farley.

going bouldering with a crew on Thursday 20 minutes from my house in a place that’s only really open during the winter (Lynn Woods Golf Course). You’re welcome to join if you want to get strong for the higher up routes.

or, you could complain about the weather and go inside if that floats your boat. That’s fun too. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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