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Equipment for mount robson


Original Post
Aaron Richardson · · Strathmore AB · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Hi all. This summer me and my girlfriend want to branch out of our sport climbing comfort zone. We want to try alpine climbing, we are hoping to do the kain face on mount robson as our first climb of the season in the spring. I need some mountaineering boots, I was wondering if anyone had experience with the LS Olympus mons evo or the scarpa phantom 8000 and would help me with some fit questions, mainly how tight should they be (never owned mountain boots before). My other question was whether or not  ice tools are really necessary, the face seems easy enough to do with a single ice axe. Thanks!!

Ben Gleason · · Durango, CO · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 60

I want to say, "yer gonna die" so badly. Guess I already did.

Aaron Richardson · · Strathmore AB · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
Ben Gleason wrote:

I want to say, "yer gonna die" so badly. Guess I already did.

Haha, I hope not, that's why I'm asking

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 14,449

Troll.  Gotta be.  Even a small amount of research wouldn't lead one to believe a boot used for high altitude (Everest) would be appropriate for Robson.  Yeah, and, go with that one ice axe...(especially if all you've done is sport climb).


Ben Gleason · · Durango, CO · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 60

Damn, we are actually planning to climb Robson this summer, and that video is pure stoke! Thanks for sharing that, Brian. Beautiful. 

Scott Kilts · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 5

I am probably feeding a troll? Ben, you do realize that video is late summer conditions on Robson? Spring will almost certainly be more hairy and undoubtedly a full on Alpine experience. I'm no alpine hardman, take all I say with a big ol grain of salt but it sounds as though some alpine ice experience over this winter a little closer to home could help you out a bit to prepare for the climb

Edit to say the climb looks spectacular and good luck

Ben Gleason · · Durango, CO · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 60

Scott, 

Please don't confuse me with OP.

Love,

Ben

ChrisMurphy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

I attempted Robson in early August 2016, those boots are way overkill and we brought two tools.

if you have no alpine experience I’ll say Robson in the spring as your first trip is a bad idea. I’ll assume you are helicoptering onto the Dome with a guide

Jordan W · · NC · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 30

You should definitely buy a pair of Oly Mons for summertime Rockies climbing

Dave Deming · · Grand Junction CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 25

Aaron while I respect your experience sport climbing, alpine route in the Canadian Rockies is a world apart. Try getting some smaller targets in first, definitely get comfortable trad climbing and consider something less committing to start. If you’re on the east coast, head up to New Hampshire or Vermont in the winter or the Adirondacks in the summer and fall. If you’re closer to the Rockies or Sierras, there is a wealth of places to garner experience and a plethora of guides and other experts to learn from 

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 180

I know it’s hard to say just by watching the video, but would those of you with experience have any faith in the screw he places? The snow just seems like styrofoam. 

My experience with screws is only is on pure ice. Thanks for any experience based advice  

Allen Sanderson · · Oootah · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,145
Jake wander wrote:

I know it’s hard to say just by watching the video, but would those of you with experience have any faith in the screw he places? The snow just seems like styrofoam. 

My experience with screws is only is on pure ice. Thanks for any experience based advice.  

Not much as it was a short screw and as you note it appears to be good styrofoam.  Typically on such routes one needs to either dig down or search around to find ice. And when one does find ice it can be a series of layers of ice between snow. Pickets are often better choice. But sometimes one gets what they get.

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 180
Allen Sanderson wrote:

Not much as it was a short screw and as you note it appears to be good styrofoam.  Typically on such routes one needs to either dig down or search around to find ice. And when one does find ice it can be a series of layers of ice between snow. Pickets are often better choice. But sometimes one gets what they get.

Thanks for the response. Yeah I for sure was not trying critique the climber. Just learn. Thanks again!

C Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 551

Bwhahahahah!  Sport climbing straight to Robson, asks about 8000 meter boots. I love it.

pkeds · · Redondo Beach, CA · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 30

Am I the only one here that thinks placing an ice screw is easier that clipping a quick draw?

Kevin Mcbride · · Nelson · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 160
pkeds wrote:

Am I the only one here that thinks placing an ice screw is easier that clipping a quick draw?

Are you trolling? retarded? or just really good at placing screws?  

Beean · · Canmore, AB · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0
Aaron Richardson wrote:

Hi all. This summer me and my girlfriend want to branch out of our sport climbing comfort zone. We want to try alpine climbing, we are hoping to do the kain face on mount robson as our first climb of the season in the spring. I need some mountaineering boots, I was wondering if anyone had experience with the LS Olympus mons evo or the scarpa phantom 8000 and would help me with some fit questions, mainly how tight should they be (never owned mountain boots before). My other question was whether or not  ice tools are really necessary, the face seems easy enough to do with a single ice axe. Thanks!!

Haha what? That's ski season friend.

akafaultline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 225
pkeds wrote:

Am I the only one here that thinks placing an ice screw is easier that clipping a quick draw?

Especially a 10 cm titanium in chandeliers

sean o · · Northern, NM · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 20
Brian in SLC wrote:

Troll.  Gotta be.

That's my impression, too.  And those two guys in the video are lucky neither ever fell, because walking along carrying coils of slack in one hand is not exactly "protection".

Dude, the Canadian Rockies are awesome, but you might want to consider starting with something else to learn alpine climbing.

pkeds · · Redondo Beach, CA · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 30
Kevin Mcbride wrote:

Are you trolling? retarded? or just really good at placing screws?  

d) all of the above

diepj · · PDX · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

Oly Mons would be nice if they work for your feet. Just like any other climbing shoe they should be a solid size small when new so that they're perfect once the liner packs out. 

As far as tools, whippets are made for the alpine and a couple of those would be great on the face.

Post a TR when you get back! 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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