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Hard Northern Arkansas/Midwest Slabs


Original Post
Zane Winter · · Kansas City, MO · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 213

A couple weeks ago I went on a trip to Arkansas where I got to climb on Wizard and Glass. Described as a "rarity," it is supposedly one of a very small number of hard slabs in Northern Arkansas. Any other suggestions for hard slabs in Arkansas? Interested mostly in routes from 5.11-5.12(+?)

Also open to other regional suggestions. Based out of Kansas City.

amigosandiego · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 5

Quartz Mountain, Oklahoma 

Enjoy. Every route put up on lead.

Hank Caylor · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 615
amigosandiego wrote:

Quartz Mountain, Oklahoma 

Enjoy. Every route put up on lead.

Hilarious, and totally true, statement. Doo-Ane Rally is the man! That place scared the crap out of me, I was only there for a weekend to boot.. I would suggest a few Enchanted Rock, TX classics but most have been retro-bolted for mass safety. Good luck man, scary slabs are great fun!

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195

I would not count many of the routes on the Shield as super safe...you get a little bit of everything at ERock, if you count south Texas as the Midwest.

true psychonaut · · the abyss (kansas) · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 195

5.12 slab?

amigosandiego · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 5

Quartz classics range 5.8-5.11 range. There is a special energy there and great history. You won’t be disappointed. I can’t wait for the trip report!


JD Borgeson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,065

There are some harder slabs at valley of the blind.  one of the best looking slabs I've ever seen anywhere is down there next to the grand traverse, but ive never tried it nor heard of anyone doing it.  then there is a 12 at the painted wall. have you considered Jackson falls at all in soill? apparently sandstone slab city.

Paul R · · Bay Area, CA · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

Jackson Falls has a LOT of good slab. Two harder ones that come to mind are Slab Stick Comedy (5.12a) and Split Decision (5.12d). You can easily set up a toprope on Split Decision from the awesome neighboring climb Fine Nine. It's a great place if you're looking to practice hard slab!

Zane Winter · · Kansas City, MO · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 213

Thanks for all the responses y'all! Glad to have some generalized AND specific beta on this.

J.Kruse · · Las Cruces, NM · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 150
Paul R wrote:

Jackson Falls has a LOT of good slab. Two harder ones that come to mind are Slab Stick Comedy (5.12a) and Split Decision (5.12d). You can easily set up a toprope on Split Decision from the awesome neighboring climb Fine Nine. It's a great place if you're looking to practice hard slab!

I came to post pretty much the same thing.  Jackson Falls would be a good place to sniff out a few very hard slab routes.  There are some great ones in the 5.10 range as well like Venom and Spiders from Mars. 

Zane Winter · · Kansas City, MO · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 213
JD Borgeson wrote:

There are some harder slabs at valley of the blind.  one of the best looking slabs I've ever seen anywhere is down there next to the grand traverse, but ive never tried it nor heard of anyone doing it.  then there is a 12 at the painted wall. have you considered Jackson falls at all in soill? apparently sandstone slab city.

I got on some of those. Flashed Insidious, but the other two were just kind of sharp and gross. 

Jon Frisby · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 110

super slab in the RRG if you call that midwest

Zane Winter · · Kansas City, MO · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 213
Jon Frisby wrote:

super slab in the RRG if you call that midwest

Going to the Red in March. Sounds like a good tip!

JD Borgeson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,065

I remembered what that one was called: heart of darkness, 12a.  book says it's the best slab in AR.

Chase Webb · · Little Rock, AR · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 340

HCR: Door Prize, T-Slab, Balrog and a couple other hard slabs on the west side I can't remember the names of in the 5.12 range.

Sam's: White Lightning and Dry County are both super fun! I've never been on Heart of Darkness but have heard it is great! The slabs by painted wall are good as mentioned earlier.

Mt. Mag: There is a lot of lower angle rock there, but everything climbs more like vertical techy.

I'm sure there are more I'm forgetting but those are the ones that come to mind! Also, if you have a long weekend, I would highly suggest making a trip out to Quartz Mountain or the Wichitas for a western slab experience.


John Barritt · · OKC · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1,065
rain cloud wrote:

5.12 slab?

There's a lot of it If you know where to look, anything over about 10d at quartz will feel like 12a ....... ;)

amigosandiego · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 5
John Barritt wrote:

There's a lot of it If you know where to look, anything over about 10d at quartz will feel like 12a ....... ;)

I have seen Quartz 5.10 turn 5.12 climbers respectfully into mush. Great stone to sharpen your head game and footwork. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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