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Integrating offset cams into your rack


Original Post
Señor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

I just bought three offset cams. X4 sizes .2/.3, .3/.4, and .4/.5. Prior to buying these I've always generally climbed with either single or double C4s starting at .3. I'm curious how most of you who climb with offsets integrated them into your usage? Do you now climb with regular non-offsets AND carry your offsets? Do you only carry offsets on climbs where you know you'll use them? My thought would be to carry both until I figure out my use of the offsets but would love to know what more experienced people do?

My primary outdoor climbing areas are Tahquitz/Suicide and J-tree.

Max Rausch · · Portland, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 145

I carry the same sizes of X4 offsets as well. I primarily climb in the valley, and in JT a couple times a year. At first I was carrying doubles of everything PLUS the offsets up most multi pitch routes. I eventually got more comfortable carrying single .3, .4, .5 and then my three offsets. I think it's all a matter of comfort level. When you need them... you really need them. 

Señor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
Max Rausch wrote:

I carry the same sizes of X4 offsets as well. I primarily climb in the valley, and in JT a couple times a year. At first I was carrying doubles of everything PLUS the offsets up most multi pitch routes. I eventually got more comfortable carrying single .3, .4, .5 and then my three offsets. I think it's all a matter of comfort level. When you need them... you really need them. 

That's what I was imagining I'd do. As in a rack of .2/.3, .3, .3/.4, .4, .4/.5, .5..... Not doubles of the regulars.

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 135

I bought a couple of offsets that have never left the ground.  every time I gear up, I think about what I want to take, and the offsets never make the cut.  I have yet to come across a situation where I needed an offset, thgouh I will say I don't climb Yosemite.  I do have a couple of TCUs, and I find placements for those, but the offsets seems like a specific piece that I am only going to take along if the beta says I need them.

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

Andrew, in Jtree (where you are not doing big wall climbing anyway...can carry whatever you want from wall to wall), always rack them up so that you do get use to placing them.  Jtree has a ton of flared cracks.  You can almost always use them.  Consider this your double set and if you have doubles already, make one of your regular cam sets your third set for a tall fingers climb.


Christopher Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Personally I just invested in Totems and will be investing in more.  They are offsets when you want them to be and regular cams otherwise.   Best of both worlds.  They also come in sizes larger than BD offsets.  And of course they are amazing for aid given that you can load them on two lobes.  The only downside I see is that only 3 of the sizes fit into the BD color scheme.  The definitely come in handy at Enchanted Rock where we have our fair share of flared and just plain irregular cracks.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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