Mountain Project Logo

Post Other (Not Awesome) Trad Videos Here

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419

Wait A Minute!
But for it's contrived (Just don't clip them?) nature, this might be
an error of destination.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         ~It really belongs in the other thread~
 this one is pretty cool!


Where were we?

oh, yeah, 

Not that I don't appreciate an un-impugnable artistically and elaborately crafted, well edited so excellent introduction to a must follow maestro of the vertical opera that we call rock climbing.
 I do. To that end, I search the you tube & often but less so the Veimo for just those special Yo-Yos to bring the most riveting of all forms of the art of video production to my fellow time wasters here on the taco...
 oh wait, well I like to share the most fabulous of the like paint drying ones to a CERTAIN thread on the best climbing forum on the planet too, also here on Mountain Project

In having found just such a gem, showing an exotic location sharing crucial beta on the cost and means to make a visit I offer this tower of best of the best for others to consider. It was, I thought so good I have taken the Liberty to proudly post it in the Awesome videos thread as well as here.

 Starting at 6 minutes & 36 seconds of the 11-minute biopic, so for a little over 4 minutes, I counted fadeaways and any other changes. . . .
 I stopped counting edit/cutaways when I ran out of fingers at 30 edits... or was it 32?

While I know the tedious nature of repetition that delights so many and often follows the posting of such finely crafted art,

please try to resist reposting this so as to deny an accumulation of clicks'''

I was not impressed with the Dred-locked "Squib"

The long introduction is way too long.

Too much unnecessary talkin'

& way too much Tea drinking too.

& Not one 'Tea" smoking incident in all that rain?

Seems . . . disingenuous

 to most, that sort of downtime

 is the definition of a 4/20 moment

Then a bunch of more irrelevant talkin'

Then,  Some more talkin' about a trippy dream that led to the name of the climb,

 cool, if you're into that,

And finally At 6 minutes 36 seconds into an 11-minute video

!!! oh that is a sweet line!


O. F. F. S. ~Corrugation Corner ! ~   it was my 2nd  "Real" multi-pitch  ONSIGHT solo ! After Thin Air  (5.6), in NH!
Mark Lide wrote:You’re right, after watching the rest of his videos from this climb, this one in particular didn’t seem so bad. Go watch all his corrugation corner videos and you’ll get a better feel.
The way he fumbles with gear, makes questionable placements and passes good ones, complains about it being too easy when he’s clearly worked.. it’s all a bit concerning.
Also, in the other videos you see he leads all the pitches meaning he’s probably the more experienced partner which is further worrisome.


Go climb the route, it is easy,  as the climber says; "Like a Ladder"  It is stacked 5.4 move after 5.4 move!
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
Mark Lide wrote: Not sure if it’s a repost but this one’s pretty great

https://youtu.be/kSIRv93sh-M

As far as most of the 1st person trainwrecks go, that one wasn’t too bad.  He spent a lot of time in the no-fall zone because he seemed a bit overconfident, but what concerned you about it enough to post?

Mark Lide · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 10
Ted Pinson wrote:

As far as most of the 1st person trainwrecks go, that one wasn’t too bad.  He spent a lot of time in the no-fall zone because he seemed a bit overconfident, but what concerned you about it enough to post?

You’re right, after watching the rest of his videos from this climb, this one in particular didn’t seem so bad. Go watch all his corrugation corner videos and you’ll get a better feel. 
The way he fumbles with gear, makes questionable placements and passes good ones, complains about it being too easy when he’s clearly worked.. it’s all a bit concerning. 
Also, in the other videos you see he leads all the pitches meaning he’s probably the more experienced partner which is further worrisome. 
Tan B · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 20
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icFU69OHeJo&t=459s
Not sure if this one has been posted yet, but it's a gem.
SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 291

Re the Bastille Crack video, the comments on youtube are pretty harsh. Seemed to me he was in over his head on the climbing (and there were some back clips). Still he was doing ok until he started panicking and french freeing, grabbing cams right next to jugs! If he'd just kept his head together I think he would have been fine. He actually reached over and placed two pieces before moving to the left flake which is worthy of some appreciation, since that is where some people deck if they fall and their cams in the big flake to the right pop out due to flex. After you move to the left flake it is all juggy goodness; the hardest climbing is over. But mentally he fell apart when it got easy. 

chris blatchley · · woodinville, wa · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 6

"clipping"... "rope"... "clipped" jesus christ...

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 291

Yeah I really hate that too.

Mark O'Neal · · Nicholson, GA · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,323

That guy did just fine. His gear was solid. So what if he grabbed a couple of cams.
Now that constant "clipping" / "clipped" thing needs to go.....

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419
Mark O'Neal wrote: That guy did just fine. His gear was solid. So what if he grabbed a couple of cams.
Now that constant "clipping" / "clipped" thing needs to go.....
You are all way to judgmental, new to climbing or not ready to try to teach the best/ safest practices.
 Choosing a straight forward trade route to demonstrate the standard operating procedure. is the standard operating procedure.

In my opinion, You are not comprehending what you are seeing.
 When one has someone who is new to the activity, or not familiar with the way that you do things ~  ~ talking it out, DEMONSTRATING THE PRACTICES & METHODS is the correct way to proceed.
 belaying, when in clear view, it may seem like over-kill, but that sort of redundancy is a teaching method.  You want to convey in real time, what is the correct procedure, what you are seeing & criticizing is the correct way ~ this is how it is done.
With the belayer  standing at the base saying what you are doing  at every action,  instills the action & timing so that when the lead climber is not in sight of the belay- climber's the mind will have the experience to relate to,&  to understand what may be occurring with the lead climber and what is going on when the leading climber is out of sight.
describing and demonstrating the action in real time is a practice recognized as good teaching technique.
Caleb Schwarz · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 120

Community poll? Is this a place to post exclusively shakey GoPro footage of sketchy shenanigans?

Or might one post very low quality climbing films?

Tan B · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 20
Caleb Schwarz wrote: Community poll? Is this a place to post exclusively shakey GoPro footage of sketchy shenanigans?

Or might one post very low quality climbing films?

Both

Jared Casper · · Scotts Valley, CA · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10
Caleb Schwarz wrote: Community poll? Is this a place to post exclusively shakey GoPro footage of sketchy shenanigans?

Or might one post very low quality climbing films?

I've been enjoying the trend of people posting videos that new trad leaders could possibly learn something from.  Along the lines of "what not to do" videos. 

Posting videos that are just low quality or bad/shaky videos that one wouldn't be able to identify things that they themselves shouldn't be doing seems kinda lame. What's the point? Just to point and laugh?
Sam M · · Portland, OR · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 30

 Here's a gem. Multiple dropped cams, sketchy pro, clipping the thumb loop, hand jam blindness, strange commentary...positioning himself for a factor 2 onto a dynex sling. Classic

Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,098
Here's a gem. Multiple dropped cams, sketchy pro, clipping the thumb loop, hand jam blindness, strange commentary...positioning himself for a factor 2 onto a dynex sling. Classic
Trad climbing is holding your placed cam while you look for that damn sling. Pure.
JRZane · · Jersey · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 95

Skyline was one of my most favorite climbs at CoR. Def a pretty mild 8 with the exception of the traverse move until you realize that your feet won't slip.

at 4:45 "its fine here."

no. it's not.

Adam bloc · · San Golderino, Calirado · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 2,185

I think the taping of kneecaps is genius. Finally, a use for my leftover pasties from my raving days!

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 790

Did he place a single nut?  That route eats them. 

It's cool that modern cams can be placed straight out instead of in the direction of pull.  Gotta get me some.

Also, he was somewhat off route for the last 1/3.  There's a crack the whole way up.  

Glad I never got a Gopro to document my mishaps. 

Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 291
zoso wrote: Did he place a single nut?  That route eats them.

I kept wondering if he even had nuts to place until he mentioned them after dropping his micro-cams.  

There is another video of the same route that is only marginally better, with a lot of the same fiddling with what look to be marginal cam placements right next to what looks to be a bomber slot for a nut.  I learned pretty early on with trad that I will take a nut over a small cam in pretty much any situation where a good nut is to be found.   
Ross Goldberg · · El Segundo · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 143
Dr Strangelove wrote:

 Here's a gem. Multiple dropped cams, sketchy pro, clipping the thumb loop, hand jam blindness, strange commentary...positioning himself for a factor 2 onto a dynex sling. Classic

Jesus fucking christ that placement at 4:45

Jordan Duncan · · Norwalk, OH · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 20
zoso wrote: Did he place a single nut?  That route eats them.  

It was all I could do to keep from screaming at the screen at 15:00. 

This topic is locked and closed to new replies.

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started