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Ring Finger tendonitis??


Original Post
Cameron Cunningham · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

What up folks, 


I have been climbing almost exclusively indoors for the past year or so. Toproping 5.10-5.11s, and started leading in april-ish. I have been leading 5.10+ frequently and 5.11s fairly comfortably. I climb about 3 times per week. My gym has a consistent 40 degree lead wall that's 50 feet high. So the story goes, I started projecting a 5.11+ with a very difficult top section, and for the life of me couldn't top it out. So I decided I need some training to tackle the route. I started to do light campus boarding about once or twice a week, being careful not to full crimp at all. I started with hanging, and after a few weeks I was able to actually climb 3-4 rungs and back down without issue. So, I ended up crushing the 5.11+ and felt good about it. However a few days later I started getting some finger ache NEAR the a2 pulley but not on it. Only hurts with palpation. The pain/soreness is off to the side of the a2 and on the pinky side right under the PIP joint. I was afraid I had a pulley strain so I took a month off and iced/heat/massaged. Finger started feeling better and I got back to climbing easy routes (5.8sish) for about a week. Well now the soreness is back, and it radiates down into my palm near the a1 pulley.It is NOT an acute pain, just soreness but hurts to palpate it too hard. Also, when I stretch the finger it feels like a "grinding" or like the tendon sheath is swollen, worse when the pinky is curled into the palm. Definitely doesn't feel like an A2 issue, so I think I have narrowed it down to either an ulnar nerve issue (given the location of the ulnar nerve in the ring finger) or the tendon sheath inflamed "catching" the tendon as it glides. Its mild/moderate and I can still climb on it no problem. It just feels "off".


Any thoughts??

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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