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New England ice guidebook


Original Post
Dilly Dilly · · Bristol, NH · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 15

I know MP is the greatest climbing guide known to mankind, but are there any classic ice climbing guidebooks that have routes for new england (specifically new hampshire)?

Found these two:

https://www.amazon.com/Climbers-Guide-Northern-England-Third/dp/0972030719/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1512860446&sr=8-1&keywords=northern+new+england+ice+climbing

https://www.amazon.com/Selected-Climbs-Northeast-Alpine-Routes-ebook/dp/B001D4SFHM/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1512860457&sr=1-1&keywords=northeast+climbs

Any preference between the two?

Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,411

Select will have limited ice routes considering it covers a large area and multiple disciplines.

I've actually used the first one (NNE Ice Climbing) and it likely doesn't cover everything since much has probably been put up since 2003 (date of publication), but it would be the better of the two.

Supplementing paper guides with MP and other online sources of beta is the way to go.  I rarely get on any new climb at the Gunks before checking the comments here, for example.  ;)

Jorden Kass · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

I too have the first one. It is available at IME in North Conway

http://www.ime-usa.com/ime/product/an-ice-climbers-guide-to-northern-new-england


Bport · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 89
Jorden Kass wrote:

I too have the first one. It is available at IME in North Conway

http://www.ime-usa.com/ime/product/an-ice-climbers-guide-to-northern-new-england


Buy this from IME, it's cheaper too.

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I have an extra copy of An ice climbers guide to Northern New England, the one everyone recommends. It’s in perfect condition, $30 shipped. Or I’ll sell you the another 9/10 for $25 shipped.

Dilly Dilly · · Bristol, NH · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 15
Bill Kirby wrote:

I have an extra copy of An ice climbers guide to Northern New England, the one everyone recommends. It’s in perfect condition, $30 shipped. Or I’ll sell you the another 9/10 for $25 shipped.

thanks, but I'm gonna swing by IME to pick up a copy.

Emmett Lyman · · Somerville, MA · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 480

Definitely get it from IME - it's Rick's book so just buy it from him. :-)

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Dilly Dilly wrote:

thanks, but I'm gonna swing by IME to pick up a copy.

Thank you for letting me know. Another buyer PMed me. 

Alan Emery · · Lebanon, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 257
Dilly Dilly · · Bristol, NH · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 15

Awesome, thanks for all the advice!  New to NH and can't wait to get out there

Peter Lewis · · Bridgton, Maine · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 160

I wrote both books. Get the ice guide. Lots of new stuff has gone in, but all the classics are in there. It looks and reads a bit dated, but it will get you to most everything.

Brent D · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 115
Peter Lewis wrote:

I wrote both books. Get the ice guide. Lots of new stuff has gone in, but all the classics are in there. It looks and reads a bit dated, but it will get you to most everything.

Peter, any plan for an update any time soon? Would love to help out however possible. 

Peter Lewis · · Bridgton, Maine · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 160

Hi Brent. I don't have any plans for an update. Guidebooks are an enormous undertaking (and expensive). But we do need an update...

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 14,130

I believe there is ongoing work to update the Wilcox-Lewis Ice book by one, or more, of the guides here in NH, but it kept on being pushed into the future so Rick (Wilcox, IME-owner) ordered up the 2003 guide to be re-printed, complete with the 2003-era advertisments!  

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Peter. thanks for the  guide! You got me pretty good with the cover photo. I spent a few seasons searching  for Aculard until someone finally filled me in and I found out that I had already climbed it many times ;)

Peter Lewis · · Bridgton, Maine · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 160

Hi Nick. It was either dyslexia....or a deliberate practical joke on the rest of the world. I still laugh about that sometimes. By the way, in a very old issue of Climbing magazine 70s or early 80s there was a photo of Henry Barber climbing a route, also at Frankenstein, called Timbuktu. It looked really good and I poked around there for the better part of three decades and never found it. Climbers....you just can't trust 'em. Now that I'm thinking about it, have you ever climbed that classic rock route on Cathedral called The Worp? It's just left of Esnepmocer...

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

the amazeing thing about Auclard is that I am quite certain that the transparency was also reversed??? the photo looks completely different from the climb until you realize that the photo itself is reversed??????

Peter Lewis · · Bridgton, Maine · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 160

Everything is reversed. Still hysterical after all these years. 

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

is that one on Mt wish I could tell you?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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