Mountain Project Logo

Gunks routes with clean falls and good pro for pushing grades


Original Post
David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 124
Nolan Huther · · Potsdam, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 480

If you want to make a list of all G-rated routes, just go through the Williams guides and look at the route descriptions, you don't have to outsource it to the MP community. In general, I've heard the expression that "the Gunks are a great place to climb but a bad place to fall" or something like that. Even G-rated routes can have poor fall potential.

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Nolan Huther wrote:

If you want to make a list of all G-rated routes, just go through the Williams guides and look at the route descriptions, you don't have to outsource it to the MP community. In general, I've heard the expression that "the Gunks are a great place to climb but a bad place to fall" or something like that. Even G-rated routes can have poor fall potential.

Considering all the falls I’ve taken at the cruxes of 5.5s and 5.6s ( Cedar Locks, No Picnic, Jackie, don’t remember the 5.5 someone said was easy.) I would disagree with this. The Gunks seems so steep even the moderates are have clean short falls.


David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 124
Nolan Huther wrote:

If you want to make a list of all G-rated routes, just go through the Williams guides and look at the route descriptions, you don't have to outsource it to the MP community. In general, I've heard the expression that "the Gunks are a great place to climb but a bad place to fall" or something like that. Even G-rated routes can have poor fall potential.

That expression is something I've heard too and my experience backs it up generally. I'd say if a route has poor fall potential it isn't G-rated, or at least it wouldn't be G if the Gunks were a sport crag. "Gunks G" is more like PG/PG13 most of the time, which is exactly why the Williams guide is fairly useless for finding "sport G" routes.

Adrienne DiRosario · · Troy, NY · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

Just use the gunks app and filter by grade. It'll tell you if something isn't a G. 

Alex CV · · Greater NYC area · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 215

The Gunks has so many ledges that there are often bad places to fall even on G routes. It doesn’t take a full blown sit-down ledge to wreck an ankle in a fall. 

The routes are also not steep for most sections, except where there is an actual roof. By modern standards they are kinda slabby, even if the overall aspect is overhung.

-Alex 

Alex CV · · Greater NYC area · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 215

Also, FWIW I have heard people use the word “sporty” to mean the exact opposite of what you are looking for, i.e. runout between bolts for a sport climb.

The Gunks App definitely is the easiest way to sort.

Another option from ye olde days of the interwebs: http://www.gunks.com/category/climb/routes/

- Alex

Jon Po · · Mahwah, NJ · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 170

Supper's Ready!

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526
Alex CV wrote:

The Gunks App definitely is the easiest way to sort.

The Gunks app is a terrific app, but it won't help with this particular issue, because it doesn't distinguish between G and PG (perhaps for good reason).

Ryan M Moore · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 35

Ants line and Bonnie's roof. Shockleys ceiling is safe to fall at the crux. Lots of gunks routes are safe at the crux, with a lot of places you don't want to fall.

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 250
Ryan M Moore wrote:

Lots of gunks routes are safe at the crux, with a lot of places you don't want to fall.

We have a winner. This is the best advice about leading in the Gunks. 

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 124

As others have said, the Gunks App doesn't distinguish between G and PG. Other guides have G routes listed, but as more than one poster has said, many of these "G" routes have bad fall potential, so that's fairly useless for my stated purposes. If a "G-rated" route has bad fall potential, it isn't the kind of G I'm looking for.

The "safe to fall at the crux" thing makes sense, as long as the crux is really a lot harder than any of the no-fall zones. I guess by this thinking, something like Reach Around (Peterskill) is G since the beginning section where falls would be near ledges is really 5.4ish, while the 5.7 traverse and roof are well protected and overhanging.

mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

"safe to fall at the crux" also frequently implies a degree of competence commensurate with the difficulty of the crux.

When climbing close to your limit it can be tempting to run it out, which turn a G-rated crux R/X pretty quickly.

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 124
mbk wrote:

"safe to fall at the crux" also frequently implies a degree of competence commensurate with the difficulty of the crux.

When climbing close to your limit it can be tempting to run it out, which turn a G-rated crux R/X pretty quickly.

That may be true for some people, bit I definitely have the opposite problem, where I place too much gear when climbing close to my limit and end up getting bitten by rope drag. :)

IJMayer · · Anacortes, WA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 110

you can take a fat safe whip from the crux of mother's day party 10b

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526
IJMayer wrote:

you can take a fat safe whip from the crux of mother's day party 10b

I think the first pitch crux is rather run out, and the fall is a swinging fall into the wall.  Lower down is a hard move that is well-protected, but the protection is kinda tricky to get right.  The second pitch roof might fit the "fat safe whip" description as there is excellent protection at the lip of the roof and a fall over the roof is into air.  All in all I wouldn't put this in the category the OP is looking for.

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 1,454

'''''''''''''

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 1,454




moving to the gunks in january!? congradulations, (and share the risk with your relations too) you are on your way now. . . Grasshopper.  That said I  do not recommend letting go. Trying climbs; while thinking that they are  "above/ beyond,  your limit"  means you are starting out with a negative - already defeated, out-look- . So in the wrong mind set in my opinion.



David Kerkeslager wrote:
  • 5.12a Supper's Ready
  • 5.9 Ant's Line
  • 5.9 Bonnie's Roof
  • 5.7 Ken's Crack
  • 5.6 Shockley's Ceiling
  • 5.9 Golden Dream
  • 5.8 Reach Around


Do you have nerves of steel?( If your looking to fall off things?) 4-5  to try- FULL DISCLOSER< LOOK AT THE OBJECTIVES CHECK FOR THE RELIABILITY OF THE PROTECTION < ONLY FALL ON A MULTIPLE OF PIECES  -REDUNDANCY-  Pink Laruel (?): "Glypnod"," Glyptadon"  ( ?(2nd P) also 2nd or 3rd,the crux of  "Modern times". . . .  but only at the crux the rest is just off vertical. . . ? ?. . . .   ?. . . .  "Feast Of Fools"?

 ." Where Fools Rush In" comes to mind ( 10,000 RESTLESS VIRGINS, the seasons. . .?/ / / WEGTABLES. . }

There are good hard .10s that you can drop off without consequence, but you have to be highly competent with your protection skills, and be sure to remember to re-set the gear after every fall. 

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 124
Michael Schneider wrote:

moving to the gunks in january!? congradulations, (and share the risk with your relations too) you are on your way now. . . Grasshopper.  That said I  do not recommend letting go. Trying climbs; while thinking that they are  "above/ beyond,  your limit"  means you are starting out with a negative - already defeated, out-look- . So in the wrong mind set in my opinion.

What I mean is that the chance of falling is larger than I'd want to chance if I didn't know the route was G.

Do you have nerves of steel?( If your looking to fall off things?)

I'm not necessarily looking to fall of things. I'm just looking to push into harder routes. Falling is a natural consequence of pushing grades, which I want to take into account so when it happens it happens safely.

Do you have nerves of steel?( If your looking to fall off things?) 4-5  to try- FULL DISCLOSER< LOOK AT THE OBJECTIVES CHECK FOR THE RELIABILITY OF THE PROTECTION < ONLY FALL ON A MULTIPLE OF PIECES  -REDUNDANCY-  Pink Laruel (?): "Glypnod"," Glyptadon"  ( ?(2nd P) also 2nd or 3rd,the crux of  "Modern times". . . .  but only at the crux the rest is just off vertical. . . ? ?. . . .   ?. . . .  "Feast Of Fools"?

 ." Where Fools Rush In" comes to mind ( 10,000 RESTLESS VIRGINS, the seasons. . .?/ / / WEGTABLES. . }

It sounds like you aren't sure about these?

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 124

What do you guys think of V3 and MF? I've followed the first pitches, but I haven't followed the whole routes and I wasn't necessarily evaluating what the falls would be like when I was following.

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 250
rgold wrote:

I think the first pitch crux is rather run out, and the fall is a swinging fall into the wall.  Lower down is a hard move that is well-protected, but the protection is kinda tricky to get right.  The second pitch roof might fit the "fat safe whip" description as there is excellent protection at the lip of the roof and a fall over the roof is into air.  All in all I wouldn't put this in the category the OP is looking for.

Rich, I'm pretty sure this was a joke about Mother's Day Party.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

North Eastern States Partners
Post a Reply to "Gunks routes with clean falls and good pro for…"

Log In to Reply