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Offsets for Jtree


Original Post
Jesse Via · · Oxford, Ohio · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

I'm headed to Jtree in a couple weeks and have heard a couple people mention offsets are good to have. Any thoughts on what sizes and whether or not its worth picking up a set before headed out there? I'll mostly be climbing 5.9 and a couple 10s.

Carey De Luca · · Yucca Valley, Ca · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 10

DMM offset nuts are money in JTree, the only nuts I take up with me.  Metoliuos offsets will last longer in JTree rock.  Aliens are great, too.  

IJMayer · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 110

considering most of the 5.9 routes were probably led on nuts and hexes, i'd say probably not. but if they're on sale, you have money, and plan on aid climbing in the future, then go for it.

grain of salt - i have only climbed in j-tree once, but i've climbed in lots of different areas on lots of different kinds of rock and still don't have offsets.

Mae Rae · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 20
Carey De Luca wrote:

DMM offset nuts are money in JTree, the only nuts I take up with me.  Metoliuos offsets will last longer in JTree rock.  Aliens are great, too.  

Agree that DMM offsets always seem to find a nice snug placement in JTree.

Jesse Via · · Oxford, Ohio · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Awesome, thanks for all the advice, I think I'll probably pick up the three smaller sizes of the dmm alloy offsets.

Hobo Greg · · My Van · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 165

I think offfset nuts are superior in every way except for sideways placements. I rack a double set of DMM offsets (only one big blue though), and have a few smaller peenuts/brassies, so I don't even bother carrying normal stoppers anymore. I've yet to run into a moment where I wish I had a regular but instead.

RandyR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 40
Hobo Greg wrote:

I think offfset nuts are superior in every way except for sideways placements. I rack a double set of DMM offsets (only one big blue though), and have a few smaller peenuts/brassies, so I don't even bother carrying normal stoppers anymore. I've yet to run into a moment where I wish I had a regular but instead.

Totally agree with this. I only have one set of offsets + carry 3 of the largest HB brassies.  I often run out of the offsets before I even start placing standard nuts.

Carey De Luca · · Yucca Valley, Ca · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 10

I place the yellow, blue, and red often in JTree.  

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60
IJMayer wrote:

considering most of the 5.9 routes were probably led on nuts and hexes, i'd say probably not. but if they're on sale, you have money, and plan on aid climbing in the future, then go for it.

grain of salt - i have only climbed in j-tree once, but i've climbed in lots of different areas on lots of different kinds of rock and still don't have offsets.

Exactly.  I've climbed at Josh since the late 70s and I don't believe I've placed a single offset.  Does mean if I had them I probaby wouldn't have used them?  I probably would have, but I can't say I ever thought I needed them.  If you want them, get them, but you'll be fine if you don't.  

caughtinside · · Oakland CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,450

Offsets are great in Josh because the cracks flare so much. 

Its' worth keeping in mind, especially if you don't get the full set, that most stoppers/nuts have an offset side to them if you place them sideways to their normal orientation, particularly useful in the larger sizes. 

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,320

I've been climbing in jtree for 10 years now, climbed hundreds of routes and never set an offset nut once. I set an offset cam in the pod below the crux of Left Ski Track a couple of times but that's it. 

Russ Walling · · www.FishProducts.com · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 3,231

I dont use offset nuts very much in Josh... they work too well.  Pain in the ass for the cleaner.  Regular sketchy pro is my go-to

Carey De Luca · · Yucca Valley, Ca · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 10

If anyone made larger offset cams, I would only use a rack of offsets in JTree.  Unfortunately, we climb lots of the wide stuff(4,5,6) and no offsets in those sizes.  

susan peplow · · Joshua Tree · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,660
Russ Walling wrote:

I dont use offset nuts very much in Josh... they work too well.  Pain in the ass for the cleaner.  Regular sketchy pro is my go-to

hahahhahha!!  Try the "A" rack Mussy, off-set nuts oh-plenty.  Plus the Metolius off-set cams which are also racked, but the nuts are golden!  

I agree with Carey, Hobo, Kos and Caughtinside above.  Basically, if you have 'em, you'll place 'em.  

Scottmx426 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0
susan peplow wrote:

hahahhahha!!  Try the "A" rack Mussy, off-set nuts oh-plenty.  Plus the Metolius off-set cams which are also racked, but the nuts are golden!  

I agree with Carey, Hobo, Kos and Caughtinside above.  Basically, if you have 'em, you'll place 'em.  

This!  Susan knows her stuff on Josh! 

Jake-up Casarez · · Santa Cruz CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 165

DMM offsets place well anywhere 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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