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Glacier Travel Training

Original Post
Alex James · · Ballard, WA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 186

Does anyone have a recommendation for where to get basic glacier travel training (preferably by a guide or something)? I was starting to do some research and its hard to tell who has the best course and one that isn't too simple. Please throw out any specific classes you've liked or heard good things about!

I already know how to build haul systems, ascend, rappel etc from rock climbing, and also how to use crampons and how to self arrest. We just don't have glaciers on the east coast where I moved from. Mainly I'm looking for like how to build snow anchors, and the methodology for crevasse rescue (and anything else I'm not aware of about glaciers)....It seems most of the course have like the first half about learning basic stuff like belaying, ascending ropes etc which I'm not super pysched to sit through...

EDIT: I did find this place which seems to fit the bill, anyone know anything about it?

D14411 F · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 770

I recommend American alpine Institutes 

“Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership part 1” course

if you don’t have 12 days, their basic mountaineering course is the first 6 days if AMTL1. 

It will meet and exceed your expectations I think 


edelweiss · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0
EDIT: I did find this place which seems to fit the bill, anyone know anything about it?

'Mountain Madness' is a well known guiding company. They guide anything from 1-day climbs to commercial Everest expeditions. They offer lots of courses, if you decide to go with them.

You may also check with the Mountaineers. They have 1 and 2-day crevasse rescue classes. Or Pro Guiding in North Bend, they are very good too. . 

Chris C. · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 337

The American Alpine Institute is probably the place you want to call. A good option for you may be to look at booking a basic 2 day climb of Baker where they teach everybody the basic glacier skills, and then follow it up with their Beginner’s Ice Course (or whatever it is called). The ice course expects that you have basic glacier skills, but has a much higher expectation when it comes to rope management and whatnot. From there they teach more about glacier and ice protection, along with movement over steeper snow and ice terrain. 

Dan Cooksey · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 365

They are in Leavenworth.  You can create any kind course you want, or they have group classes.  My wife and I went out with a guide 1 day many years ago to help the transition into trad leading. It was great and the 2:1 ratio was an awesome learning environment.  I also found that their prices are very affordable, not to say that paying for skills that could save your life is something to go cheap on, but the guides at NW Mountainschool are top notch. 

Max Tepfer · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 1,686

I’ve worked as a guide for all of the above companies (among others) and guided extensively across the northwest. Feel free to pm me if you have specific questions not answered here. 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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