True Dry Tool Routes in the Adirondacks?

Are there any true dry tool routes in the Adirondacks? Something you wouldn't climb with hands, only with tools. No ice, just rock. 

There are some great routes at Chapel Pond that fit that description. Evisceration is awesome, and is in the route guide here on MP: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108042582/evisceration

There are several others at the pond, although I'm spacing on the names. Just before the canyon, up in the woods a bit is a good M7 that is relatively new.

Think:

Pitch-off . . .  .  .

 or go long:

Gothics... 

Stein Pull wrote:

There are some great routes at Chapel Pond that fit that description. Evisceration is awesome, and is in the route guide here on MP: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108042582/evisceration

There are several others at the pond, although I'm spacing on the names. Just before the canyon, up in the woods a bit is a good M7 that is relatively new.

That looks like a pretty sweet route. Should I just search by mixed routes and look through the list? I'm thinking of one of those steep overhung lines where you see the climber using figure-4s and 9s back to back. More like an acrobatic climb and less technical. 

Turbo and The Geek

To the left and right of Chiller Pillar 

Pitchoff Chimney

Chockstone Chimney and Williem Jorge  

Biscuits and Gravy and lunatic friend

There’s three at  Exit 30 cliff including the fecalater 

There’s more in Blue Lines. Buy that joint 

Bill Kirby wrote:

The Geek

That's what I was thinking of. Highly recommended.

Bill Kirby wrote:

Turbo and The Geek

To the left and right of Chiller Pillar 

Pitchoff Chimney

Chockstone Chimney and Williem Jorge  

Biscuits and Gravy and lunatic friend

There’s three at  Exit 30 cliff including the fecalater 

There’s more in Blue Lines. Buy that joint 

Thank you for the great list. I found those routes in Blue Lines II. The book can be difficult to use since gear recommendations aren't written in the route descriptions, so its unclear whether or not there are bolts on the mixed/dry lines. The author is a little too anti bolts by calling them "elevators." 

I'm surprised no one has sarcastically said Pete's Farewell yet.

(Disclaimer: Please please please please do not dry tool Pete's)

Adam Hammershoi wrote:

Thank you for the great list. I found those routes in Blue Lines II. The book can be difficult to use since gear recommendations aren't written in the route descriptions, so its unclear whether or not there are bolts on the mixed/dry lines. The author is a little too anti bolts by calling them "elevators." 

 Haha.. you should read some of Don’s older guide books. There’s not many bolted drytool routes in the Adirondacks. From what I can remember only the routes at Chillar Pillar are the all bolts. If you need beta for The Geek and Turbo call Ian Osteyee. His contact info is on his guiding companies website, ADK Mountain Guides. I would also PM Jim Lawyer if he doesn’t post here first. Jim would be the perfect guy to speak to.

 Don Mellor does hate bolts and drytooling routes. It’s an Adirondack thing. I had a discussion with him last year for 45 minutes about bolting a cliff to play on in November before the ice comes in. It was pretty much the opposite of Mountain Project. Productive and we talked about grabbing a beer at the end. He’s a good man and one hell of a climber. Everyone’s got their opinions.

If you’re looking for a hard mixed line try the Fecalator, M10 trad.

Nolan Huther wrote:

I'm surprised no one has sarcastically said Pete's Farewell yet.

(Disclaimer: Please please please please do not dry tool Pete's)

Let’s not have that discussion again :)

How bout the first 15 feet of Shipton’s? The pond’s not frozen

Evisceration (Chapel pond)

The Geek (Chapel Pond)

Turbo (Chapel Pond)

Horner-Delaney (Chapel Pond)

Youthful Indiscretions (Chapel Pond)

Homer's Dirty Little Secret (Chapel Pond, almost all rock)

Chunky and Napoleon are almost all rock (Chapel Pond)

Sockman and the route to its right are mostly rock (Chapel Pond)

Your Mother (Chapel Pond) is normally rock, unless conditions are fat.Not much gear, but you can TR.

Pussyfootin' with Lilith (Chapel Pond) is great dry tooling above some easier ice.

P1 of Spike (Chapel Pond)

Cysty Ugler (Cascade Pass)

There are some at Poke-O depending on conditions, like near Get a Job, Italian Traverse, and Storm Warning.

Material Girl and 29" Waist are great dry-tool routes. As is Middle Earth. (Lower Washbowl)

There are a couple at the Malfunction Junction cliff, which aren't in Don's book.

Gin and Juice (McMartin)

Mhard For Life (Hayes)

Glass Pipe (Exit 30); the lower section is dry tooling

Fecalator (Exit 30); P1 is dry tooling, as is most of P2

Catatonic Immobility (Exit 30); almost all dry tooling

Either (Exit 30); way to the right of Fecalator

Or (Exit 30); way to the right of Fecalator

Right of Chiller Pillar is a dry-tool route, perhaps with a tiny bit of ice

There's a good new-ish one at Lock Ness.

There are a couple at Hoffman Notch, like Twisted Sister and Dutch Rudder

There are some at Potash Mountain

Karen's Crack at Underwood Canyon. Others here too.

There's a great one on the right side of The Honey Pot.

DRusso wrote:

Vermont looks sick! I'll actually be up at Quebec for their ice fest, so I'll definitely have to check out Saint Alban. 

Bill Kirby wrote:

 It’s an Adirondack thing. 

While I'm totally late to this party, I want to correct this statement and say it's a "Mellor" thing, NOT an Adirondack thing.  

ClimbLikeAGirl wrote:

While I'm totally late to this party, I want to correct this statement and say it's a "Mellor" thing, NOT an Adirondack thing.  

 Yea you’re right, Don’s pretty much the only one these days. My bad :)

Bill Kirby wrote:

 Yea you’re right, Don’s pretty much the only one these days. My bad :)

Don Mellor does hate bolts and drytooling routes. It’s an Adirondack thing.

I see things a little differently. I don't think Don "hates bolts", as he's surely placed his share. In my experience, he doesn't hate drytool routes as previously stated; he and I have climbed pure drytool routes together, and he's quite good at it. My impression is that he definitely doesn't approve of "convenience anchors", and, like almost everybody, doesn't want our summer rock routes to be subjected to winter crampon and ice tool damage. He has chosen to omit many pure drytooling routes from Blue Lines 2 for whatever reason, maybe because they aren't "blue"? Don quotes Joe Szot in Blue Lines 2 as having said "If there's no f%#$ing ice, then it's not a f%#$ing ice route." Rather self evident, actually. I remember Szot as a gifted drytooler, and many of his FAs -- and there are many -- require extensive drytooling. In the end, Don's route selection in Blue Lines 2 is inconsistent, as he included some pure drytool routes and excluded others.

I don't think it's appropriate to label Don as a "hater" or having extreme views on these two issues. In my view, he has done more for the region than anyone I know, and I continue to admire, appreciate, and learn from his stewardship.

Aren't there some mixed/drytooling routes on the right of Central Pillar at NFOP?

Luc-514 wrote:

Aren't there some mixed/drytooling routes on the right of Central Pillar at NFOP?

Yes, Bucking Bronko and Ground Up. There's a bit of ice on each, but mostly toolin'. And there's Willpower, up and right of Hanging Spoons (you'll have to climb an easy ice pitch to reach the base of this one.)

I also forgot Idiot Sans Savant across from Moss Cliff, Bossman on High Falls Crag, and those two routes up at Alcatraz (left of Moss Cliff).

Jim Lawyer wrote:

and those two routes up at Alcatraz (left of Moss Cliff).

 Notched in Stone and Bobo the circus idiot? 

Guess we could add Williem Jorge to the list too.

Bill Kirby wrote:

 Notched in Stone and Bobo the circus idiot? 

Come On Pilgrim is on the very right side of Alcatraz and Notched In Stone is right of Alcatraz. Bobo The Circus Idiot is on the right side of the Aid Wall on Moss cliff. All are certainly not pure dry tool routes. Although they all have a lot of dry tooling, they also all involve a fair amount of ice climbing. Most, but not all the ice, is on the thin/technical side.