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Dave MacLeod with a new hangboard


Original Post
Edek Falkowski · · Buffalo, NY · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 100
amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
divnamite · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 90

rung depths which are 45mm, 21mm and 15mm, 

Why not just get metolius's campus board rungs for what 1/4 of the price before discount?

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 574
amarius wrote:

I've only seen the Progression board, which I believe is identical except as regards the edge widths available- narrower on the Transgression.

I didn't care for it, as the edges seemed painfully sharp and the limited space between edges prevents using a full crimp for me.

But the idea is great if you want to be able to fine tune the width of the edge you hang from, both between sessions and within sessions.

With respect to the new board from MacLeod, it looks nice, would depend on how the edge radius suits one's fingers. 

Simple campus rungs would seem to do the same thing.


Has anyone found a big edge they like? 

I've tried the 1 1/4 inch (32 mm) edges from Metolius and Tension and just don't find the radius very comfortable. 


Nick Niebuhr · · Santa Fe, NM · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 465

Those crimps aren't gonna last long with the way the wood grain is oriented... 

R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 140

$185 usd! For 3 edges. Wow what a bargain.

Peter Beal · · Boulder Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,755

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,28533.0.html

for a (mostly) scathing response to the MacLeod training apparatus

Stanley Baker · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20
amarius wrote:

My gym has one. The edges are sharp as hell and the texture has to be complete hell on your fingers. The edges are nice and solid, but I can't imagine using it without your fingertips being destroyed.

Ryan Palo · · Bend, oregon · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 595

I never quite understood the fascination with wood hangboards. You're training to grab painful, unfriendly rock grips. Is your skin really so weak you can't handle the texture of a regular climbing hold?

Jon Frisby · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 110
Ryan Palo wrote:

I never quite understood the fascination with wood hangboards. You're training to grab painful, unfriendly rock grips. Is your skin really so weak you can't handle the texture of a regular climbing hold?

for me, hangboarding tends to make unnatural wear patterns, particularly on the first pads of my index fingers. Wood mitigates this, but I still sometimes slice through a couple layers on a wooden board

Stanley Baker · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20
Ryan Palo wrote:

I never quite understood the fascination with wood hangboards. You're training to grab painful, unfriendly rock grips. Is your skin really so weak you can't handle the texture of a regular climbing hold?

When you're doing a consistent regiment of hang boarding the point of that is to strengthen your fingers, not toughen up your finger skin. 

Stanley Baker · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20
Tim Lutz wrote:

v3 climber trying to school the v11 climber. classic MP

Didn't know you had to climb hard to understand things?

He's also only ticked 3 boulders. If you add up all of mine I am like v40 or something.

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 30
Tim Lutz wrote:

v3 climber trying to school the v11 climber. classic MP

Hahahah....

glad to read I'm not the only one checking profiles from time to time... Grades aren't everthing, but they helps...

Ryan Palo · · Bend, oregon · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 595
Stanley Baker wrote:

When you're doing a consistent regiment of hang boarding the point of that is to strengthen your fingers, not toughen up your finger skin. 

Id agree that the focus should be on strengthening to the exclusion most everything. I also believe specificity is paramount in hangboarding. Example: goal route has shitty/painful pockets, better be good at & used to grabbing them. I use the hangboard for a variety of things: strength/hypertrophy, maintenance work, and practiced duress. Eduring a set that's particularly stressful really helps practicing the duress you'll encounter on route. I guess my point is, I use the hangboard to toughen up myself. 

With regard to my tic-list: I dont log much on here and I boulder A LOT. Not that that matters here. Nor does the grade you climb matter. I will say that I've spent considerable time doing structured ( not just mess around in gym/bouldering ) training. 

Tristan Mayfield · · SLC, UT · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 45

Something like $30 here. I really like Dave, but I think he might've sold out a bit too much this time.
https://www.tensionclimbing.com/campus/campus-rungs

aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 294
Stanley Baker wrote:

Didn't know you had to climb hard to understand things?

That may be true if you're talking about how to build an anchor or something, a 5.14 climber doesn't necessarily place a nut any better than a 5.10 climber. But we're talking about training on a hangboard here, do you really think a V3 (ok, ok, V5) climber knows more about training than a V11 climber?

MrZ · · Colorado · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 270
Stanley Baker wrote:

Didn't know you had to climb hard to understand things?

He's also only ticked 3 boulders. If you add up all of mine I am like v40 or something.

Do some research who Ryan Palo is...smh

TheBirdman Friedman · · Eldorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 65

Buy all the measured crimps you want. Or slopers. Or pinches. Or any kind of hold you want. In any size. For way less money. 

https://www.atomikclimbingholds.com/the-pull-pack-resin-version-boards-and-holds

Putting three different size campus rungs on a piece of wood does not a hangboard make. An overpriced hangboard at that. 

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 483
Ryan Palo wrote:

I never quite understood the fascination with wood hangboards. You're training to grab painful, unfriendly rock grips. Is your skin really so weak you can't handle the texture of a regular climbing hold?

I've got pretty soft skin, with a decent chunk of time spent climbing the moon board and doing endurance on plastic I'd rather save skin so I can have more time focusing on movement. Rhino dry and tip juice (think you might know something about them ;) are really helping keep me from wearing down to pink/red/woozy skin on those days though, maybe I'll like a more textured hangboard in the future, but I doubt it. 

If I was getting read to go to bishop though I could see putting in some work with one of eva lopez's boards and doing some skin farming.


5.Seven-Kevin · · Las Vegas · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0
MrZ wrote:

Do some research who Ryan Palo is...smh

A dirty climber who does a pointless activity, just like the rest of us?



Who ate paleo?


Fucking neat.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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