figuring gravity at 240+ lbs

I'm just shy of 6 ft tall, 240lbs to 250lbs and my ape index is shorter than my height. Far from the most ideal body type. Naturally my strength to weight ratio will be worse than other climbers not cursed with the dimensions of a brick. I've never meet many heavior climbers and wonder what grades they've climb? techniques or movements that worked better than other? I've put in serious work training but always get to about the same grades. 10- to 10 on lead and sometimes hangdog/thrash my way up a 10+ following.  Any personal bata, tips, or tales of oversized orges climbing would be appricate. 

DMarti Marti wrote:

I'm just shy of 6 ft tall, 240lbs to 250lbs and my ape index is shorter than my height. Far from the most ideal body type. Naturally my strength to weight ratio will be worse than other climbers not cursed with the dimensions of a brick. I've never meet many heavior climbers and wonder what grades they've climb? techniques or movements that worked better than other? I've put in serious work training but always get to about the same grades. 10- to 10 on lead and sometimes hangdog/thrash my way up a 10+ following.  Any personal bata, tips, or tales of oversized orges climbing would be appricate. 

I suspect you already know the answer - lose a good 70 lbs., which will also make your training a lot more effective.

not an option. I got down to 230 during one summer and I looked holllow. I'm not fat and legi natural size

I'm 6'4'' and around 210 lbs, so a little taller and lighter, but always though of myself as a heavier climber (mostly sport climb).  My hardest redpoints have been 12b.  A good "technique", if you want to call it that, is to play to your strengths.  For example, I do not have the best crimp strength (a function largely related to weight), but I feel more confident on longer more powerful and/or slopey routes especially ones where I can find good rests.  Generally I do not "waste my time" projecting crimpy routes with small pockets, but focus on the latter (Easy Skankin', Lost and Found, ect).  Other than losing weight and/or getting stronger (which most climbers want anyways) my best advise for pushing your grade is to figure out what type of routes best suit you and focus on those (really this could be advise for any climber trying to push their grade).                       

DMarti Marti wrote:

not an option. I got down to 230 during one summer and I looked holllow. I'm not fat and legi natural size

That means either:

1. a metabolic problem of some sort that needs medical advice.

2. You have an incredible amount of muscle mass thus increasing your weight without you looking fat.

3. you're in denial about being overweight and thus reject the single biggest thing that can help you improve your climbing. Your ideal weight is around 170lbs, depending on your age and which calculator you use.

Which is it, because one of those possibilities effectively ends the thread?

6'3", 215-220lbs, I climb moderates then ice climb and climb mountains. Our comparative advantage is carrying weight over long distances instead of climbing overhanging crimps.

Mark Ra

Im stoked to get some mountains in. biggest routes in the black hills and devils tower were only 500ft. 

BTW, I'm 63, 6', and currently 190lbs. I should be about 20lbs lighter. When I was in my best shape ever and climbing at my hardest, I was 145lbs.

Yeah, I haven't figured out a trick either.  Compete with yourself, enjoy other sports/aspects of climbing.  But in my experience a couple years of grip training was not as useful as losing 10 lbs of muscle mass.  Getting better at climbing rock comes at the expense of other sports/activities. 

FWIW you're not actually 5'11" 250lbs w/ low body fat unless you're a fairly elite body builder

I'm heavy for a climber and I find that the disadvantage is minimized on routes that are technical and not insanely steep or sustained. Like on granite trad routes you can usually get away with being sort of heavy but you'll be feeling it on overhanging sport climbs. 

I'm 6'3"  190lbs and yes i could lose 20lbs.... but hey i'm a 50 year old fat dad happy to climb 5.10 trad. 

12% according to caliper test a few weeks ago. falls into the average and by no means bad at 36. 

jonasMS

Well stated man. I think I have a modest climbing goal of being able to onsite a high percentage of 5.10 regardless of rock, style or number of pitchs. 

Fewer beers. That'll usually bump you up a grade or 2

I am 6 feet and 235 lbs and RP 11a in sport grades. In trad am around 9s and 10a.  I like to do long moderates, and not try so hard.  my friends call me the Chris Farley of climbing. I just try to have as much fun as I can with my friends in the outdoors and don't take climbing grades too seriously.

Mike wand wrote:

I am 6 feet and 235 lbs and RP 11a in sport grades. In trad am around 9s and 10a.  I like to do long moderates, and not try so hard.  my friends call me the Chris Farley of climbing. I just try to have as much fun as I can with my friends in the outdoors and don't take climbing grades too seriously.

my goal is to be able to onsite any 5.10 route clean at a high percent. yeah long mods are my thing to.

eli poss wrote:

Fewer beers. That'll usually bump you up a grade or 2

you mean pre climbing beers for courage and camaraderie right? totally agree. I like your style!

Onsighting any 5.10 route is a difficult objective.. I've redpointed 5.12 gear routes and still fall off 5.10 onsights sometimes.  As much as it sucks.. losing weight will probably help you more than gaining any strength. I notice even 2 or 3 pounds when I'm trying to climb hard. Baked goods, bacon, and beer or climbing hard? Take your pick! Trail running is your answer!

i'm 6'3" 250. I can't say what's a good way to perform better or climb harder since I don't as serious as I should. I enjoy climbing because its the one thing im not very good at. I really have to work at getting better. Like Marc says I don't do what I should diet wise. I still have fun leading moderates. I do find ice climbing is a way to gain a level playing level with others lighter than me. 

Bill Kirby wrote:

6"4' about 195-  200 now... was at 210-215 climbing. Used to be 220+ when i focused on weightlifting. A long (years) slow process of only climbing allowed me to drop the muscle mass. No weight lifting at all besides pull ups and light shoulder workouts. Having that muscle mass off made a huge difference in what I was able to climb. If you are built like me the biggest thing is do not do any sort of leg work,  squats/dead lifts are a no go (which sucks because I love the benefits of heavy lifts on test boost). Also diet/hydration is huge in climbing, if I eat poorly or am dehydrated at all I notice  an immediate drastic drop in performance. It boils down to what you want though, I want to send so I've made some sacrifices. It's been well worth it so far. 

David N wrote:

6"4' about 195-  200 now... was at 210-215 climbing. Used to be 220+ when i focused on weightlifting. A long (years) slow process of only climbing allowed me to drop the muscle mass. No weight lifting at all besides pull ups and light shoulder workouts. Having that muscle mass off made a huge difference in what I was able to climb. If you are built like me the biggest thing is do not do any sort of leyeah 9work,  squats/dead lifts are a no go (which sucks because I love the benefits of heavy lifts on test boost). Also diet/hydration is huge in climbing, if I eat poorly or am dehydrated at all I notice  an immediate drastic drop in performance. It boils down to what you want though, I want to send so I've made some sacrifices. It's been well worth it so far. 

yeah I haven't lifted much for abput four years and damn I miss it. I imagine after a few years of lifting seriously I maintain a fair amount of add mass regardless of not training. I never had climbing gym near by so our climbing season was 8 months.