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Heading to Jackson Falls - worth bringing a rack?


Original Post
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195

Hey guys,

Making my first trip to Jackson this weekend.  Is it worth bringing a trad rack?  I was browsing through and saw a few 3/4 star trad routes but not a lot.  I like to bring a rack with me when I hit the Red, as there’s usually a few classic cracks even at the sport crags, but I don’t want to haul it around if it’s not going to get used.  Is it worth bringing gear?

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265

there are a few great lines at jackson....when i lived in illinois i plugged gear almost exclusively. clipped a bolt or two as well but there is plenty of gear game 


Thomas Tukiendorf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

My go to crag,  first trip, I'd say go light and fast.  Sample what the place has to offer.  Looks like stellar weather. 

Chris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 145

My favorite crag! There are a few trad routes but I agree with Thomas, start out by sampling the sport routes. There is a wide range of really great sport routes to choose from. Let me know if you want some recommendations.


Chad Hiatt · · Bozeman, Mt · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 85

That's the first place I climbed outside!  18 years ago maybe?!?   It's changed a lot, but there's still some good trad lines.  The approaches are short, and the cliffs are short.  Bring a small rack and give yourself the option. 

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,365

I don't recall getting on any trad climbs myself but I do remember a few lines available, probably pretty dirty. Did you bring the rack?

Jcburgart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 15

100% bring a double rack.

Dylan B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 521
Jcburgart wrote:

100% bring a double rack.

Double? That seems like serious overkill for a crag with nothing taller than 30 meters, and no splitters. Like Tradiban, I never plugged any gear on my trips to Jackson Falls; but if I were to go back planning to do so, I’d bring a light single rack #.3 to #3.

Michael Martzahn · · St. Louis, MO · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 20
Dylan B. wrote:

Double? That seems like serious overkill for a crag with nothing taller than 30 meters, and no splitters. Like Tradiban, I never plugged any gear on my trips to Jackson Falls; but if I were to go back planning to do so, I’d bring a light single rack up to #3.

Agreed

Dylan B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 521

Actually, I once followed a lead of a crack under rainy day roof. The leader carried only a single rack of nuts, no cams or hexes.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195
Tradiban wrote:

I don't recall getting on any trad climbs myself but I do remember a few lines available, probably pretty dirty. Did you bring the rack?

Didn’t end up bringing it.  Having been, I will say a light rack would have come in handy, as (like people said) there were a few sport routes that took gear and even a few that were bizarrely runout without it (mixed climbs), considering how rare full-gear routes are down there.  Never seen sandstone with so few cracks!

James Burnes · · Dix, IL · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

There are 32 gear routes listed in the last JF guidebook.  Several above my ability.

Jcburgart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 15

Since no one else seems to have actually plugged gear in Jackson recently, I'll just follow up and say a double rack to #3, extra micros and finger sized pieces. 

also, 30 meters is still 98 feet - which in my mind certainly warrants a double rack with extra micro cams if you plan to onsight anything.

Anyway, Have Fun! Jackson is Rad!

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195

Yeah, I don’t remember seeing anything close to 30m.  Jackson was indeed rad, very unique rock.  Not a place to cut your trad teeth, though.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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