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Packs for "small" big wall


Original Post
Cameron Anderson · · Ogden, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 95

This is probably a stupid question, and maybe I'm overthinking it, but what does everyone use for packs on a big wall that you're doing in a day or as a fix-and-fire? I'm thinking like some of the easier walls in Zion. Do you haul? Do you just have the follower carry a pack? Do both members carry small packs? 

Zach Raney · · Leadville, CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

Fix and fire is good beta, hauling sucks. The bd creek 20L is a nice follower pack. You can also haul it hand over fist with a microtrax. Patagonia linked 16L is another favorite. For something like Touchstone you could fix the aid pitches 1-3 and free the rest easy in half a day the decent is odd. Anyway those are my thoughts. Usually for me the follower has a pack unless it’s very easy with no chimneys I’ll wear one too 

Shelton Hatfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 585

I think the most important consideration is tactics. Small bigwall means different things to different people. Is the bag light? Have the follower wear a lightweight pack like an rei flash or similar. Is the bag heavy? Have the leader haul it and use something burlier. Obviously this will cut into your short fixing time a bit. Are you both free climbing, swinging leads,and it's hard climbing? Have the leader haul it. They'll be taking a break soon anyway since the follower gets the next lead. Will you be done in a few hours? Maybe just rack what you need on your harness.

If you're looking for pack recommendations, I'm pleased with my Metolius mescalito (24L)

adrian korosec · · tucson,az · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 100

For Zion, fix and fire works very well for most routes except the very long ones (Tricks, etc).  We like to have the second carry a small pack like the BD Bullet, Pata Linked, etc.  We've hauled a BD Touchstone sized haul bag on Prodigal but didn't need near that space.

Yep, fix the first 2-3 pitches. Leave as much of the rack and anything else you need the for the next day at the top of your lines to make your jug more enjoyable the next morning.  Sleep in the campground and come back early to fire the next day.  That's the joy of Zion's 800-1,000 ft routes.

Enjoy

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

Any one of the Metolius Haul Packs would work well. 

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430

FWIW that's the way to do it: Fix and Fire on a wall with fixed rap anchors.

You'll develop better habits when you are forced to climb fast and light.

If you are slow. Bail. But not before the headlamps come out. :)

Any number of walls are far easier and faster if you don't haul. Save the hauling for a route you know you must bivy a second time on.

Hayden robinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 90

Walls in a push are bad ass but there is something to be said for packing a case of beer and a couple boxes of wine and doing a pitch a day. Even in Zion you can party wall. But if you push something pizza is key beta. I'm not sure if I would of made it up my recent push of zodiac with out it

Garrett R. · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 40

King Tut wrote:

FWIW that's the way to do it: Fix and Fire on a wall with fixed rap anchors.

You'll develop better habits when you are forced to climb fast and light.

If you are slow. Bail. But not before the headlamps come out. :)

Any number of walls are far easier and faster if you don't haul. Save the hauling for a route you know you must bivy a second time on.

I counter that "the way to do it" is do it in a day, no fixed line shenanigans involved.


To clarify - I have no real objection to fixing a couple pitches. If it makes you happy go for it. But Moonlight, Touchstone or Spaceshot are not massive days. Why take two days to climb a Grade IV when you can fire it off in one?


And to contribute to the original question - unless you are dealing with chimneys or at-your-limit free pitches the leader should have a small pack. Fix the line, refuel, rehydrate, etc. As soon as your partner hits the belay you're ready to move.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430

Garrett R. wrote:

I counter that "the way to do it" is do it in a day, no fixed line shenanigans involved.


To clarify - I have no real objection to fixing a couple pitches. If it makes you happy go for it. But Moonlight, Touchstone or Spaceshot are not massive days. Why take two days to climb a Grade IV when you can fire it off in one?


And to contribute to the original question - unless you are dealing with chimneys or at-your-limit free pitches the leader should have a small pack. Fix the line, refuel, rehydrate, etc. As soon as your partner hits the belay you're ready to move.

In total agreement...Its just that when I say "wall" I mean a Grade V or longer (ie routes that a competent party would usually bivy on at least once...but that bivy is usually directly caused by hauling and the extra effort burned, imo.

In my experience, doing a route in one bivy and hauling is easier to do in a day w/o hauling (you probably agree with this too).



best

Sam Keller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30

Most things in Zion are single day walls. Even soloing should be a single day event. Unless you are climbing something bigger or harder like Dark Side or Streaked Wall. 


I like the Metolius Haul Packs. I haul them by hand w a micro instead of making my partner jug w. them. Bonus is you can carry more food and water than w a rocket pack.

If you just go for it on a route that has rap anchors you will not regret it. Just remember, you can climb in the dark, when the day gets long and you're feeling tired and scared just go for it. Don't bail.

Mydans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 70

I have a metolius sentinel that is almost 15 years old and will not die.  Its been dragged up over 10 routes. Both in a day walls and as a second bag on bigger routes.  Its actually fairly comfortable as a pack and seems just the right size for a gallon or 2 of water, clothes and food.  Indestrucible.

Auden Alsop · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

If climbing a route with a bulk of free climbing and a few aid pitches, you could consider a smaller day pack like a patagonia linked pack to carry some snacks, water, and aid specific gear. As long as you won't be on wall for too long, you should be fine with that.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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