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Opinions on the sliding x


Original Post
Andy J · · Parker · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 5

I have never seen anyone using the sliding x for anchors, it's easy to set up, automatically equalize, and only needs a 120mm sling but nobody uses it, are they considered unsafe? 

Big B · · Sin City, NV · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1

1/10..

GDavis Davis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 10

Lets place our bets on which will fail first:

1 One of the bolts, resulting in an extending anchor, or

2 Your sling slides back and forth across the rock and is cut, killing the climber

Neither very likely, but why make the bet when you can tie stopper knots

TAGG C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 288

When using at Magic X or sliding X I would recommend that you use limiting knots so that the anchor is redundant. If you do this it is a great anchor because it is quick, self-equalizing and lightweight. 

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
mediocre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

Just depends on whether you're using a grigri and what knot you use to tie in.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 502

There are very few scenarios where a sliding x with limiter knots would be preferable to a masterpoint or quad. It doesn't distribute the load as well as other sliding configurations and without limiter knots it can easily result in catastrophic failure. 

baldclimber · · Ottawa, Ontario, Canada · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1
amarius wrote:

Searching is 5.hard

Mike Womack · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,673

Has anyone out there made a sliding X anchor using two bolts and had a bolt fail on them resulting in shock load?  I'm not saying it's impossible, but extremely unlikely so I use it all the time.  Fast and easy for setup and cleaning.  

JonasMR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 6

A sliding X is only appropriate for some routes.  Those will be marked with an X after the number grade, e.g. 5.11b X.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 502
Mike Womack wrote:

Has anyone out there made a sliding X anchor using two bolts and had a bolt fail on them resulting in shock load?  I'm not saying it's impossible, but extremely unlikely so I use it all the time.  Fast and easy for setup and cleaning.  

The issue of shock-loading isn't really a big deal. As long as there is a dynamic rope in the system, the anchor isn't gonna get hit hard. The bigger issue is a sling getting cut resulting in catastrophic failure. If you want something that's pre-tied and very quick and easy use the quad. It will distribute the load better and is less likely to fail if one thing gets cut.

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 135

They are fine, I am sure lots of folks use them.  Are they bombproof, no, but they are close enough in just about any situation.

I use a quad, which I keep pre-tied with 2 lockers for the ends and 2 lockers for the rope.  Overkill, I know.  I could do the same thing with a sliding X, but with the quad, I have a masterpoint that slides independently of where I clip in with my PAS for multipitch.  It is also preset, so there is no possibility that I misclip the system and bypass the redundancy that is the advantage for both systems.  Also, in the very unlikely situation that one of the bolts fails, the quad will extend less than the sliding X, which means less of a shock load on the remaining bolt.

If you want to use a sliding X, go for it.  I have friends that are perfectly safe and use other methods for tie ins that are lighter and faster than the quad.  I wouldn't have an issue with anyone that set up a sliding X for top rope or to bring up a second.  It just ins't what I do.

Mike Womack · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,673
eli poss wrote:

The issue of shock-loading isn't really a big deal. As long as there is a dynamic rope in the system, the anchor isn't gonna get hit hard. The bigger issue is a sling getting cut resulting in catastrophic failure. If you want something that's pre-tied and very quick and easy use the quad. It will distribute the load better and is less likely to fail if one thing gets cut.

I understand that issue.  Although, I'd never place a sliding X somewhere over sharp edges that could result in cutting the sling.  That seems fairly obvious.  

Nathan Hui · · San Diego, CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

Everything is fast and easy for setup and cleaning if you learn it well and apply it judiciously.  A pre-built quad is fairly lightweight, and I would argue even faster than a sliding X.  And if you're building the anchor on lead, I would argue that I can build a cordallette faster than you can tie your sliding x with all of your stopper knots, and break it down just as fast.

The key difference is what you can use it for.  In toprope, anything works, as long as it lines up with the route.  That's where equalizing anchors come handy - you can do multiple routes from the same anchor without significantly weird loading.  Aside from that, whatever.  Where the difference becomes more significant is where you start dealing with top belays and stuff like that, where you are adding more things and doing more at the anchor.  Then, the differences between the quad, equallette, cordallette, and magic x become far more important.

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

So Yer gunna die isn’t the standard answer any longer? 

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 1,673
amarius wrote:

60% of the time, it works every time!

Luke Pace · · Arkansas · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 70

Mike Barter has a nice youtube video on it.

Kyle Elliott · · Everett, WA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 775

Start a thread on a dead horse topic: "dude, ever heard of the search function?"

Use search function to find old thread and ask a question: "Dude, way to necro a 7 year old thread. Check the date next time!" 


Lol. Us. 

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 877

Talking about the magic x never seems to get old for some reason. It reminds me of Obama. It sounded like a really good idea.  But after years of implementation and testing it didn't really do what it claimed it could do and it's dangerous in some  situations. 

Evan Thomas · · West Reading, PA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0
Kyle Elliott wrote:

Start a thread on a dead horse topic: "dude, ever heard of the search function?"

Use search function to find old thread and ask a question: "Dude, way to necro a 7 year old thread. Check the date next time!" 


Lol. Us. 

Dont be this guy ^ the self-know-it-all prick that has never been good at anything other than climbing

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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