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evolv version of Scarpa Vapor V?


Original Post
Rica O · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 3

Hi, does anyone know of any evolv climbing shoes that are similar in shape to the Scarpa Vapor V?

I currently have the Vapor and like it but I have slightly different sized feet so I wanted to get an evolv shoe to take advantage of split sizing for a closer fit on both feet.

I tried on the evolv Shakras (a low volume version of the Shaman) but had a lot of dead space. I also like the La Sportiva Miuras but obviously La Sportiva doesn't offer split sizing.

Chase Horn · · Los Gatos, CA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 6

I am very familiar with Evolv shoes, using them pretty much exclusively. That being said a disclaimer is that Evolv is going through a really cool transition right now by bringing out a completely new line of high-end shoes out this year, alot of which I have yet to put my feet in. From what I've read and seen they seem like a slightly downturned low volume shoe that some people size loose for trad and tight for hard bouldering/sport climbing. What Evolv shoe that describes to me is (or was) the Luchador. They stopped making them, but you can still find them around fairly easily. I believe they replaced them with the Supras, but I've yet to try them out so I can't confirm. 

As far as your sizing goes, I am not sure what kind of "dead space" you had in the Shakras. If you have skinny feet I wouldn't recommend the Shamans or Shakras as they fit a wider foot profile. If your a skinny-footed boulderer, get the Nexxos or Agros. All around I'd still recommend the Luchadors (maybe the Supras?), these shoes are my favs because they are mildly aggressive but also extremely comfortable (like really, really comfy). I'll have to hear more about your sizing issues to be more confident.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

Supras would be the best choice. 

They don't make the luchador, which means you won't be able to get the split sizing any more since you have to do they with evolv directly. 

Most people have different sized feet, but the difference has to be pretty significant to need two different sizes. Even though evolv offers it, it's not cheap- I think it's a 50% premium on the shoe. 

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
John Wilder wrote:

 Even though evolv offers it, it's not cheap- I think it's a 50% premium on the shoe. 

For Supra split adds  30USD. Supras run 145USD. 


For OP - Butoras can be ordered in split sizes as well - that will cost you 25USD.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530
amarius wrote:

For Supra split adds  30USD. Supras run 145USD. 


For OP - Butoras can be ordered in split sizes as well - that will cost you 25USD.

Plus shipping from evolv. But yeah.

Id also recommend checking out Butora. Their Acro is super popular with a good number of people. 

Chase Horn · · Los Gatos, CA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 6
John Wilder wrote:

Supras would be the best choice. 

They don't make the luchador, which means you won't be able to get the split sizing any more since you have to do they with evolv directly. 

Most people have different sized feet, but the difference has to be pretty significant to need two different sizes. Even though evolv offers it, it's not cheap- I think it's a 50% premium on the shoe. 

Actually, Evolv has a service (that I've used) where they stretch shoes up to one size larger for free so long as the shoe is Evolv. Like I said, Luchadors are still being sold everywhere, a lot of the times at a steep discount, so the option still exists for you to get a pair and send it into Evolv to have them stretch one out for you.

Carter Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 10

Unfortunately, the closet shoe to that is the Geshido VCS but it is discontinued. It's a sweet shoe--flatter version of the old shaman. However, the closest would be the Supra. The Kronos would also be fairly similar.

Baba Fats · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

I second the Supra or Kronos.  If you want a shoe to replace the vapor, but still be as versatile, stay away from the shaman.  I know you already said you would, but I feel like I have to point out that even if a shoe fits the same or is just as comfortable, it won’t necessarily perform the same.  Vapors are great all-rounders.  Shamans have no use on slabs.  I was really interested in them until I tried them on a simple slab problem.  Something I could do in my sleep wearing my vapors or instincts became completely impossible in the shamans.  

Also, like it was pointed out before, don’t spend the extra $30 on split sizes.  Evolv has a service that will stretch a shoe out by 1/4 sizes if you need it.  The cost of the split sizes is understandable because they need to split up 2 pairs of shoes.  But stretching it is (free, I think), since they just take on the the pair and make it bigger on a mold.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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