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Shoe sizing advice

Original Post
jlind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 31

Looking at getting a pair of shoes for all day.  Specifically the butora altura.  How are you guys sizing your all day trad shoes.  Butora recommends 1/2 to 1 full size over street shoe.  My current all day shoes are 1/2 size below street shoe.   I discovered that they are not actually all day shoes  

J W · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535

All day shoes should leave your toes flat and have no sharp pain anywhere in the shoe. Some folks wear socks with them once they start to stretch a bit. 

Make sure you size in late in the day after your feet have swollen a bit. Early morning sizing can leave you with painfully tight shoes or 'not all day' shoes, depending. 

Kris S · · Gunbarrel, CO · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 753

This site is a nice tool for all shoe sizing:

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430

Hard to say, as your foot conditioning (calluses and strength) has a lot to do with it as well as the shoe type (ie is it board lasted or not).

As well, you may have to make some concession to performance if some hard face climbing or thin crack necessitates a particular shoe...

Comfort-wise you can hardly go too large but the only way I ever known is to have climbed extensively in the shoe...small tweaks half to a full size up from "performance fit" depending on the shoe.

The struggle is real.

Patrick C · · Houston, TX · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

I don't follow the 1/2 or 1 size below street shoe rule. It gets you in the ballpark, that's all. I wear 9.5 Asics, 10 Nike. Which one do I subtract from? When I need new all day shoes, I find my style (slipper, board lasted, down turned, whatever) and ask for 8s, 8.5s, and 9s to try on. W/o socks I put on a pair and stand up. If it hurts right away, too small. If ur toes don't touch the end, too big. The other advice about end of day is spot on. Now I'm down to 2 size options, we'll say 8.5 and 9 for this story. Then I ask the clerk to bring out EVERY pair of 8.5 and 9 in that model. I mix and match from each box, w/o mixing sizes, to find the 2 shoes that fit the best. There is no rule you have to buy the 2 the factory randomly paired up and stuck in a box. If you lace them the same you will find 2 you like the best and have the same snugness on your slightly different sized feet.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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