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Trad gear in climbing gym


Original Post
James White · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

Although 

C Archibolt · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 871

How are you placing pro in a climbing gym? On cracks? Slinging jugs? 

Forever Outside · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 235
Kurt G. · · Reading, PA · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 150

if you have access to a crag I'd much more recommend going out and practice placing at the base of the crag. knowing how to place quickly and efficiently will do you much more good than knowing how your rack shifts around while on TR. Also find a good safe spot just off the ground and hang there until you have a good pump going and then practice placing gear, anyone can place on easy terrain but knowing how to calmly and quickly place good pro is invaluable. not saying what youre doing is pointless but theres much better things you could be doing if you want to train for trad climbing.  

James White · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

My gym does not have cracks,  although it would be cool. Again, I just go through the motion of making a placement. The goal is not to get that wake up call at the crag that I am now climbing with an extra 1 or 2 pounds that I have not been climbing with over the winter months.  Let’s say, climbing with pro, is like climbing with more weights and so you have in effect, more resistance 

Robert Rowsam · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 75
James White wrote:

My gym does not have cracks,  although it would be cool. Again, I just go through the motion of making a placement. The goal is not to get that wake up call at the crag that I am now climbing with an extra 1 or 2 pounds that I have not been climbing with over the winter months.  Let’s say, climbing with pro, is like climbing with more weights and so you have in effect, more resistance 

lol

C Archibolt · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 871
James White wrote:

My gym does not have cracks,  although it would be cool. Again, I just go through the motion of making a placement. The goal is not to get that wake up call at the crag that I am now climbing with an extra 1 or 2 pounds that I have not been climbing with over the winter months.  Let’s say, climbing with pro, is like climbing with more weights and so you have in effect, more resistance 

If you enjoy this, go for it. I'd rather just climb the routes in the gym. Gym climbing and trad climbing are so different, I'm not trying to make one imitate the other. 

jason.cre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10
James White wrote:

My gym does not have cracks,  although it would be cool. Again, I just go through the motion of making a placement. The goal is not to get that wake up call at the crag that I am now climbing with an extra 1 or 2 pounds that I have not been climbing with over the winter months.  Let’s say, climbing with pro, is like climbing with more weights and so you have in effect, more resistance 

Help me visualize this -- you rack up with a full rack on top rope in the gym.  You start climbing, and when you are at a stance, pull a cam (or nut or whatever) off your rack, fling it around a bit to 'go through the motions' and then put it back on your harness?   YOU ARE MY HERO.

James White · · Alpharetta,GA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 60

Flaming is so common in forums, and in truth, its a part of nature I guess to put someone down for trying something different and innovative. Yet, some people freaked out for sure when climbers were told not to use pitons any longer and to trust cams. The response for sure must of been .. you must be crazy to trust you life on a silly device with no track record. Practice, at placing a the crag, practice placing your rack in the same spot, practice, practice, practice whenever you can.. even our troops these days practice in a simulation chamber to hone their skills.. so ... practice when I can as often as I can ... you may get just one chance to F-- up.

James White · · Alpharetta,GA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 60

No way, would I climb with a full rack at a climbing gym, I climb sometimes with stoppers on my gear loops, or even some small cams...  So that I make that clear, I carry sometimes when I climb at the gym some trad gear on my gear loops, often just stoppers...  I think some folks are picturing me hauling a pig at the gym as well.. but there ya go..

Charlie S · · Ogden, UT · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 1,693

2/10.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Sounds silly, would look silly.

Jfriday1 · · Conifer, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 40

Ya Troll

TJ B · · Denver · Joined May 2012 · Points: 25

I won’t flame ya, but I’ll take this opportunity to ask questions since I see you’re from Alpharetta. Wife and I are heading to Atlanta for WSP @ the Fox for NYE. Any good crags that are sunny down there? We’re driving from CO to Des Moines for Christmas and then heading to Atl so I’m bringing the sport rack in case weather is good enough for Chattanooga areas on the way 

Eli · · GMC3500 · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,914

I'm in the 0/10 department down here.

James White · · Alpharetta,GA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 60

Right, wearing those belay glasses at the gym looks silly, even sounds silly, people look like morons wearing belay glasses.... its better to just keep tweaking you neck back like everyone else...

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

What's preventing you from going to real rock outside, where practicing would add some real benefit?

James White · · Alpharetta,GA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 60

Nothing, prevents me ... and I do practice outside on real rock, I climb trad multipitch often .. I believe this may be my first and last posting on MP.

Erroneous Publicus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5

You should check out aid climbing. Endless gear fondling. I suspect you'd love it.   

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
James White wrote:

Flaming is so common in forums, and in truth, its a part of nature I guess to put someone down for trying something different and innovative.

Different? Yes. Innovative? Hardly.

 Yet, some people freaked out for sure when climbers were told not to use pitons any longer and to trust cams. The response for sure must of been .. you must be crazy to trust you life on a silly device with no track record.

Your history of climbing protection is seriously lacking.

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 324

Who says you can't find gear placements in the gym?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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