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Rapping off The Whale’s Tail


Original Post
Tommy Copeland · · Motueka, New Zealand · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 145

I am looking to take a beginner on his first Trad route and have been eyeing routes on the Whale’s Tail. It is the perfect face for beginner leads, expect there is 1 problem. I only have a 40 m rope and I know the rappel is 100’. With my rope I am restricted to about 60’ rappels. If anyone knows another way off The Whale’s Tail, has any suggestions on other routes we could do, don’t hesitate to speak up! Thanks MP

Andy Nelson · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 341

Another descent option off the WT would be the Northeast Arete, but may contain exposure/fall hazard that a beginner would not be comfortable with - using the rope may be advised.  Many routes could be done on a 40m but you run into challenges with raps and lowers thus 60m is pretty standard.  There are several routes on the West Ridge/Rincon that you could lower on a 40m without too much hazard but they are not suitable for beginners (Chockstone and Five Eight Crack)  The first pitch of the Bastille has anchors around 60'.  Likewise if you have done the descent off of the Wind Tower, a 40m would cover the overhang on the rap - but I think there would still be some down climbing to reach the trail, again which may not be suitable for beginners.  Whatever you do - close the system and knot the ends of your rope.  

Dankasaurus · · Lyons, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 85

Tommy, you should get a 60 or 70m cord ASAP.  

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 289

Not meaning any disrespect but given your age and the fact that you say in your profile that you climbed your first trad route this year, combined with the fact that you seem to be using a rope pretty far from standard length (which makes me concerned about what other basic information you might not have), I think you should reconsider guiding a beginner. Link up with someone more experienced through the gym or the partner finder (insert scathing remarks about internet partners and climbing gyms here), and get the basics down, and be safe!

Bill Lawry · · New Mexico · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,631
Tommy Copeland wrote:

I am looking to take a beginner on his first Trad route and have been eyeing routes on the Whale’s Tail. It is the perfect face for beginner leads, expect there is 1 problem. I only have a 40 m rope and I know the rappel is 100’. With my rope I am restricted to about 60’ rappels. If anyone knows another way off The Whale’s Tail, has any suggestions on other routes we could do, don’t hesitate to speak up! Thanks MP

Borrow someone else's long-enough gym rope for the day for a double-rope rap.

alpinist 47 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

You know the length of your rope....that's important.....there are plenty of options... ask other climbers what will work for you when you get there .....be safe...have fun

Bill Lawry · · New Mexico · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,631

Let us know what you end up doing?  There are a lot of caring folks here.

Tommy Copeland · · Motueka, New Zealand · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 145

My partner does have a 60m rope I would usually use for things like this, but he’s gone this week so that wasn’t an option! I appreciate all the care and suggestions, and think I’ll end up taking him on the west face of Castle Rock(5.5) in BoCan. I️ have done a few climbs there and am almost positive I will be able to rap of that just fine 

ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 145

How about something like Breezy on the Wind Tower in Eldo? 5.5, fun, and it’s an easy walk off. 

Tommy Copeland · · Motueka, New Zealand · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 145
ErikaNW wrote:

How about something like Breezy on the Wind Tower in Eldo? 5.5, fun, and it’s an easy walk off. 

Oh I hadn’t thought about Breezy before! That’s what i’m going to do thank you! 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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