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The Nose - Then there were 5


Original Post
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

Keita Kurakami Makes Fifth Free Ascent of the Nose

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430

Very cool.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

  

ViperScale . · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 240

I have always wondered but don't think I have ever seen someone mention this. Has anyone free lead every pitch non-stop without falling for the nose? Or do they just start the pitch over when they fall so every pitch is lead back to back free but not every single pitch clean. Or say for a team if someone leads every other pitch than climbs it again the next day but leads the other pitches they didn't lead the first time is that considered freeing the entire thing?

I mean I guess technically you could fall on every pitch but as long as you never pull on gear you lead the entire thing free just not cleanly. As long as you were never on top rope and you never pulled on gear you freed every move.

caughtinside · · Oakland CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,450
ViperScale wrote:

I have always wondered but don't think I have ever seen someone mention this. Has anyone free lead every pitch non-stop without falling for the nose? Or do they just start the pitch over when they fall so every pitch is lead back to back free but not every single pitch clean. Or say for a team if someone leads every other pitch than climbs it again the next day but leads the other pitches they didn't lead the first time is that considered freeing the entire thing?

I mean I guess technically you could fall on every pitch but as long as you never pull on gear you lead the entire thing free just not cleanly. As long as you were never on top rope and you never pulled on gear you freed every move.

To "free" it under the "rules" you have to redpoint every pitch.  So no hanging, no top roping.  If you fall, you have to lower and re-lead the pitch. 

I don't think the Nose has been led with no falls (and therefore no pitch repeats) but I might be wrong about that. 

Jon Frisby · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 110

It's not clear - was this a ground up push or did he just finish off the remaining un-freed pitches (Changing Corners)?

Leo Franchi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 15

I think he finished Changing Corners. My partner and I were up on the Nose earlier this week and passed Keita working Changing Corners -- they said they'd just been working on that one pitch from their portaledge camp. We saw them in el cap meadow yesterday morning and he mentioned he'd freed it :)

Xan Calonne · · Joshua Tree, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 35
ViperScale wrote:

I have always wondered but don't think I have ever seen someone mention this. Has anyone free lead every pitch non-stop without falling for the nose? Or do they just start the pitch over when they fall so every pitch is lead back to back free but not every single pitch clean. Or say for a team if someone leads every other pitch than climbs it again the next day but leads the other pitches they didn't lead the first time is that considered freeing the entire thing?

I mean I guess technically you could fall on every pitch but as long as you never pull on gear you lead the entire thing free just not cleanly. As long as you were never on top rope and you never pulled on gear you freed every move.

Are you making a distinction between leading a route free and leading a route free and clean, and by clean you mean with no falls? This distinction seems somewhat pointless, and further convolutes an already convoluted practice (the 'rules' of big wall free climbing). Assuming you are not onsighting, then who cares if you have to re-climb certain pitches as you go? The improvement in style this would represent seems incredibly marginal given that you are already redpointing. 

It's either onsight or not. It's either free or it's not. You either climbed the pitches in sequence in a push or you did not. Further distinctions don't seem to serve any purpose.

If you are asking whether anyone has redpointed the entire route from ground to top in a single push with no falls, then the answer is no. The closest would be Lynn and Tommy's in a day ascents, but I am fairly certain that on those ascents they each had to re-climb crux pitches after falling off. 

Congrats to Kurakami!

ViperScale . · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 240

I mean I kinda assumed that but never really seen someone confirm if that was how it was done or not. So the next big goal for the nose will be the first person to free lead every pitch from the ground to the top with no falls!

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430
ViperScale wrote:

I mean I kinda assumed that but never really seen someone confirm if that was how it was done or not. So the next big goal for the nose will be the first person to free lead every pitch from the ground to the top with no falls!

Yes, the first "onsight flash" of The Nose would be a big deal, imo...and that climber would likely have other very notable flashes/onsights....

However, watching video (disclaimer, its been 30 years since I even saw the pitch) of Changing Corners pitch makes that very remote at this time, imo.

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 347
ViperScale wrote:

I have always wondered but don't think I have ever seen someone mention this. Has anyone free lead every pitch non-stop without falling for the nose? Or do they just start the pitch over when they fall so every pitch is lead back to back free but not every single pitch clean. Or say for a team if someone leads every other pitch than climbs it again the next day but leads the other pitches they didn't lead the first time is that considered freeing the entire thing?

I mean I guess technically you could fall on every pitch but as long as you never pull on gear you lead the entire thing free just not cleanly. As long as you were never on top rope and you never pulled on gear you freed every move.

Lynn Hill climbed it free in a day (23 hrs) with only 2 falls on changing corners.

TC has climbed it free in a day (11-12 hrs) twice, once with a single fall on changing corners (and once with 2 falls).


https://web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm#nose

So noone has done it a single no-fall push.. but they've come close.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
King Tut wrote:

However, watching video (disclaimer, its been 30 years since I even saw it) of Changing Corners pitch makes that very remote at this time, imo.

The changing corners pitch is in this video from 0:40 - 1:12



Justin Skaare · · CO · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 90
Leo Franchi wrote:

I think he finished Changing Corners. My partner and I were up on the Nose earlier this week and passed Keita working Changing Corners -- they said they'd just been working on that one pitch from their portaledge camp. We saw them in el cap meadow yesterday morning and he mentioned he'd freed it :)

That seems odd to me.  I would think a route has to be free'd in a single push to be historically relevant.  

Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 86
King Tut wrote:

Yes, the first "onsight flash" of The Nose would be a big deal, imo...and that climber would likely have other very notable flashes/onsights....

However, watching video (disclaimer, its been 30 years since I even saw the pitch) of Changing Corners pitch makes that very remote at this time, imo.

Although Ondra ultimately fell on Changing corners and the great roof I believe he onsighted the rest of the route. I think it would be very difficult and proud to onsight, even if someone gave you the beta. 

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Parker Wrozek wrote:

Although Ondra ultimately fell on Changing corners and the great roof I believe he onsighted the rest of the route. 

My impression is he fell on the great roof, tried a few more times, didn't send, and then pulled through the rest of the route (up to the great roof, the hardest pitch is a short 12- crimp traverse). But either way it's irrelevant as the 2 crux pitches are by far the hardest pitches of the route.  

Would Adam Ondra have onsighted the Nose if he prepared for it instead of using it as training for the Dawn Wall? We'll never know. But he did not come close to an onsight (in a day).

Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 86

Yup he aided the great roof after trying to send. But I believe he freed everything else (multiple attempts on changing corners). He is just the only person I know of who tried for the onsight in a day. and it was still NIAD with his dad. https://gripped.com/news/adam-ondra-climbs-nose-day-dad-almost-sends/


Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,365

When they "re-lead" the pitches do they pull all the gear?

I wouldn't consider the route "sent" until each pitch is led with no falls in order, ground up, in the sense that the gear is only as a safety precaution and the ascent never weighted any of it. The notable exception being a hanging belay. Therefore a true free ascent of The Nose has not yet occurred.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430
Tradiban wrote:

When they "re-lead" the pitches do they pull all the gear?

I wouldn't consider the route "sent" until each pitch is led with no falls in order, ground up, in the sense that the gear is only as a safety precaution and the ascent never weighted any of it. The notable exception being a hanging belay. Therefore a true free ascent of The Nose has not yet occurred.

FFS you are a Clown Posse of one in that regard.   


ps. Seriously, I don't want to start some flame war as its just a waste of both our time. But you literally are the only person on Earth that would think to throw shade on Lynn Hill's utterly historic achievement. You need to think about that.

blakeherrington · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 1,060
Parker Wrozek wrote:

 I think it would be very difficult and proud to onsight, even if someone gave you the beta. 

I think it would be especially difficult to onsight if someone gave you beta. 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195

And thus was born the illuminati of the climbing world, that had the sacred task of preventing an onsight of the nose by secretly whispering beta into the ears of anyone who attempts it.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,365
King Tut wrote:

FFS you are a Clown Posse of one in that regard.   


ps. Seriously, I don't want to start some flame war as its just a waste of both our time. But you literally are the only person on Earth that would think to throw shade on Lynn Hill's utterly historic achievement. You need to think about that.

I'm not pulling away from anyone's achievement, obviously Lynn has gotten the closest of anyone but if you fall on any route then you didn't send. Why should The Nose be any different?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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