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Original Post
Aaron Richardson · · Strathmore AB · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

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ViperScale . · · McMurdo Station, AQ · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 240

Only crazy people ice climb... I think you just need better drugs.

Beean · · Canmore, AB · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

You fell on a 3? Probably need more time on the TR. It's generally recommend to not fall on ice.

Sharpen those screws too and practice firing them in on TR too.

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 175
Aaron Richardson · · Strathmore AB · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
Beean wrote:

You fell on a 3? Probably need more time on the TR. It's generally recommend to not fall on ice.

Sharpen those screws too and practice firing them in on TR too.

I think if I keep leading at that level it will solve my head problems. My screws were also brand new from mec, super sharp

Beean · · Canmore, AB · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0
Kyle Tarry wrote:

http://willgadd.com/ice-climbing-is-not-rock-climbing/

http://willgadd.com/note-to-self-how-not-to-fall-off-ice-climbing/

(This is probably a troll, though)

Good catch.


In this case I recommend OP whip often to get the head game in. 

rusty pitoune · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 755

Dallin Carey · · Missoula · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 157

Ice climbing Rules:

#1: Don't fall.

#2: Don't fall.

#3: Don't hit the ground. 

To disagree with Will Gadd on a pivotal aspect of ice climbing after one season of the discipline and a lead with a couple falls is ridiculous. My mentor told me that if I was not 100% positive I could free solo the route then I had no business leading it. Ice is so much more condition dependent and the objective hazards are far greater than at some sport crag. Please rethink your approach to leading ice before you seriously hurt yourself or someone else. 

Toprope the shit out of stuff and get comfortable moving on all types of ice. Practice effectively placing screws while on TR too. 

Not meaning to sound like a dick. Just please be careful.  

Dallin Carey · · Missoula · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 157

My bad. You're much better than me. Carry on. 

Seth Kane · · Bozeman, Montana · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 111

More TR mileage is key for sure. Even season to season I can tell the difference in head game when I have a good base of mileage early in the season vs. seasons where I only get on rare or hard routes.

Seth Kane · · Bozeman, Montana · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 111
Atvr Atvr wrote:

Seems fair, but top roping won't fix my lead head. .

Yes, it will. If you're whipping on WI3 your main issue isnt your lead head. It's that you have absolutely no idea how to climb ice. Get comfortable with your sticks and feet and work out the technique when you aren't sketched out on lead, and the lead head will come. 

Norm Larson · · Wilson, Wy. · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 55

It's not scary at all, just don't fall and you'll be fine.

Acmesalute76 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 66

I think this thread should be censored. 


Josh Hutch · · State of Jefferson · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 90

This is awesome   

Kevin Mcbride · · Canmore AB · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 160

This is the kind of shit that makes me avoid this section of mp

Aaron Richardson · · Strathmore AB · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
This post violated Guideline #1 and has been removed.
Chris C. · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 337
Atvr Atvr wrote:

Fuck you dip ass. No reason to be a cunt just because I'm trying to learn.

Jacon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 200

7/10.  Would consider getting trolled again. 

Kevin Mcbride · · Canmore AB · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 160
Jacon wrote:

7/10.  Would consider getting trolled again. 

I'm closer to 6. This troll reached too far

Aaron Richardson · · Strathmore AB · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Anyone have any real advice????

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,113
Atvr Atvr wrote:

Anyone have any real advice????

Seth already covered everything you need to know in regards to your original query.

"Yes, it will [regarding:TR laps]. If you're whipping on WI3 your main issue isnt your lead head. It's that you have absolutely no idea how to climb ice. Get comfortable with your sticks and feet and work out the technique when you aren't sketched out on lead, and the lead head will come."

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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