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Aid Gear for Mostly Free Climb


Original Post
Alex Quinn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

I'm just curious what people typically bring in terms of aid gear for a route that is almost all free but a pitch or less of aid.

Do you bring alpine aiders? Just slings? What about the second (who can't free the moves)? Does the second bring aiders + jumars?

For more context I was flipping through the guidebook for Colorado National Monument and a lot of the routes there have a pitch of aid or maybe just a few moves. I was trying to work out in my head what the best gear would be for such a route. Maybe something like Sundial Dihedral which has various short sections of aid.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105758095/sundial-dihedral

Obviously there is no right answer here I'm just curious what has worked for people.

Jordan Palamos · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 15

I prefer having aiders and a fifi hook if I'm doing any aid climbing. It just makes the aid section a lot less strenuous. If your aid section is just a bolt ladder, people will say just french free by pulling on draws and stepping on bolts: in my experience this sucks unless you're a very fit free climber already.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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