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BD Old Camalots (particularly 3.5 and 4.5)


Original Post
Chris Ritna · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

These numbers don't put the old cams in a good light (as for them being much different than c4s in their use-able range) but the numbers dont mean shit when you're climbing, So I turn to you guys

Phil Pullshard · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 115

When all you have is a 4.5 incher sometimes it’s the perfect fit. Personally love mine. Routes like three penguins in Moab 4.5 is almost necessary. As for 3.5 i retie all my slings when I get an old cam and they both function like a cam!

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535

There was no functional difference between the black and grey 3.5s. The grey ones were newer, that's all.

In terms of usefulness, the 3.5 was considered a bigger loss than the 4.5 when they went away. Maybe if you climb alot of off widths, you may hunt around for a couple, but by and large, the 4.5 isn't really missed. 

The 3.5, on the other hand, is. I kept mine and definitely wouldn't sell it, and have even considered buying another, but I don't climb on gear quite as much as I used to these days, so it never quite seems worth it when I see them for sale... 

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,800

Other, perhaps less well known brands cover these "missing" BD sizes. Trango and HB pieces are in my gear bin; the table OP cited suggests that WC and RE pieces would be useful as well.

Chris Ritna · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0
Phil Pullshard wrote:

When all you have is a 4.5 incher sometimes it’s the perfect fit. Personally love mine. Routes like three penguins in Moab 4.5 is almost necessary. As for 3.5 i retie all my slings when I get an old cam and they both function like a cam!

How do you go about retying the loops?

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105
John Wilder wrote:

There was no functional difference between the black and grey 3.5s. The grey ones were newer, that's all.

In terms of usefulness, the 3.5 was considered a bigger loss than the 4.5 when they went away. Maybe if you climb alot of off widths, you may hunt around for a couple, but by and large, the 4.5 isn't really missed. 

The 3.5, on the other hand, is. I kept mine and definitely wouldn't sell it, and have even considered buying another, but I don't climb on gear quite as much as I used to these days, so it never quite seems worth it when I see them for sale... 

Wait, what's so special about the #3.5? It's almost exactly duplicated by the #4 Friend/4CU/Demon...

caughtinside · · Oakland CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,450
Noah Yetter wrote:

Wait, what's so special about the #3.5? It's almost exactly duplicated by the #4 Friend/4CU/Demon...

Agreed. the old BD 3.5 is almost spot on a #4 friend. But people want to pay double for an old heavy cam. 

Rob T · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 10

I’ve always found the old style 4 to be a more valuable piece than the 3.5. New 4 feels close to the 3.5, but the old 4 is right between the C4 4 & 5

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

I've never seen a spot the 3.5 works that a new 4 won't. Same thing with the 4.5 vs new 5. I have definitely had problems carrying new 4's and expecting them to fit where an old 4 goes.

I hoarded old 4's for a while. Eventually realized it was silly. I sold some, kept two, and plan to keep them forever.

Rob T · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 10

Same here, 2 old 4’s. Doubly important for me bc when those are perfect it’s too wide for fists for me and too tight for knees. 

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
Rob T wrote:

Same here, 2 old 4’s. Doubly important for me bc when those are perfect it’s too wide for fists for me and too tight for knees. 

It's a hard size. I "invented" a good technique for that size. Still hard though.

Phil Pullshard · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 115
Chris Ritna wrote:

How do you go about retying the loops

I buy 1inch sling of same color, cut old one off thread webbing through then i tie a water water know with 2-3 in tail ( does not affect getting came off rack having longer tail) just feel safer personally. Have found you will be a couple inches further from cam when fall. But what’s it matter i have had two water knots catch whippers and hold find. Also cheap alternative to sewn slings but also more variation. 


FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Chris Ritna wrote:

How do you go about retying the loops?

You can send them to BD for reslinging. 

sclair · · SLC, Ut · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 30
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote:

I've never seen a spot the 3.5 works that a new 4 won't. 

FWIW I have been on a few pitches at the creek that will take a 3.5 but not a 4. 

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
sclair wrote:

FWIW I have been on a few pitches at the creek that will take a 3.5 but not a 4. 

Meat hooks? There are a few I suspect that may be the case but I had so many 4 Friends back then that I never came across this problem.

rkrum · · Here and there · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

I think the 3.5 is a pretty handy piece, particularly when the rock gets crumbly and squishier. I run into pitches/sections with a fair amount of regularity that I am not happy with a 3 but a 4 absolutely does not fit. But yes, the old 4 friend or the current single axle dmm equivalent will fill the same size range.

I've never found the 4.5 to be important. The overlap between the old 4 and new 5 makes that piece unnecessary. I suppose if you have no old 4s, then a 4.5 might be helpful?

Phil Pullshard · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 115

look up the route on three penguins in arches national park and tell me the 4.5 is negligible. 

Phil Pullshard · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 115

some times 4.5 fits better than old 4 and new 5 swear to allah

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,113
Phil Pullshard wrote:
Phil Pullshard · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 115
Jason Todd wrote:

I'd say "some times" is actually a pretty rare occurrence. 

I see a difference in lobe size, but as I said I only know of one route that 4.5 is the size of the crack, I use mine often, If you're not searching for the wide don't bother getting one but climbing vedauwoo a lot I find places where 4.5 is better than over cammed 5. See: Three Penguins in arches and worm drive in vedauwoo, both list 4.5 as pro because sometimes 5 is over cammed. I absolutely agree if your're just building a rack don't bother but if you search for hand stacks get a couple. buy yours if you dont want it :)

Chris Ritna · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0
Phil Pullshard wrote:

I see a difference in lobe size, but as I said I only know of one route that 4.5 is the size of the crack, I use mine often, If you're not searching for the wide don't bother getting one but climbing vedauwoo a lot I find places where 4.5 is better than over cammed 5. See: Three Penguins in arches and worm drive in vedauwoo, both list 4.5 as pro because sometimes 5 is over cammed. I absolutely agree if your're just building a rack don't bother but if you search for hand stacks get a couple. buy yours if you dont want it :)

I will certainly let you know, on the fence right now

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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