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Eva Lopez finger strength clinics- worth the money?


Original Post
Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 568

Eva Lopez is offering some finger training clinics locally.

They are a little expensive.

Anybody have comments about the value? First hand experience preferred!

Honestly, how much is there to say that hasn't already been said?

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 12,744
Mark E Dixon wrote:

Eva Lopez is offering some finger training clinics locally.

They are a little expensive.

Anybody have comments about the value? First hand experience preferred!

Honestly, how much is there to say that hasn't already been said?

Here I'll try to say something new:

. . . (given the current state of scientific research on clinbing performance + strength) . . . 

"Whatever the "best" training method is confidently promoted now, there will be some different "best" five years from now."
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
and something old . . .

Human physiology and biochemistry varies widely across the population. Therefore different training approaches and protocols work better for different people.

Even now, what Eva Lopez is seeing best for mutant 5.14-15 climbers might be different from what's working now "mere 99th percentile DNA" 5.13a climbers --
-- which is different from what's working now for mere 90th percentile DNA 5.11b climbers.

Ken




Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 568

Bumping in case anybody's been to one of her clinics and cares to comment.



Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,790

I'd be impressed if anyone offering such a clinic could scale their advice equally well for a 16 y.o boulderer pushing into Vdoubledigits as they could for a 60something working 5.8s.

Jon Frisby · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 110
Gunkiemike wrote:

I'd be impressed if anyone offering such a clinic could scale their advice equally well for a 16 y.o boulderer pushing into Vdoubledigits as they could for a 60something working 5.8s.

I would certainly hope not. These people need two different things, not a gradation of the same

Peter Beal · · Boulder Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,760

Mark,

I'm going to see if I can do a little interview with her in advance to get a sense of what's in store. Hopefully will meet up with her in CO

John RB · · Superior, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 58

Mark,

The clinic consists of you trying to pinch your $150 as hard as you can and they try and pull it from your fingers.  

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 568

Did anyone attend? 

Any insights you'd care to share?

I went climbing instead...

DR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 675

Mark I know Nina Williams has been working with her. Maybe send her a message and see what Nina has to say.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,360

Sounds like some broken pullies waiting to happen ;)

Peter Beal · · Boulder Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,760
Mark E Dixon wrote:

Did anyone attend? 

Any insights you'd care to share?

I went climbing instead...

I made incredible gains just by seeing the Eva-related posts on social media. Front lever on Beastmaker 6mm edge this afternoon.

aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 294
Peter Beal wrote:

I made incredible gains just by seeing the Eva-related posts on social media. Front lever on Beastmaker 6mm edge this afternoon.

It would be even more impressive without the crashpad!

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 568
Peter Beal wrote:

I made incredible gains just by seeing the Eva-related posts on social media. Front lever on Beastmaker 6mm edge this afternoon.

I knew you were wicked strong!

I can't even lift my feet off the ground on the 6.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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