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Most dangerous newbie situation you've seen


Eplumer400 · · Cleveland, OH · Joined May 2016 · Points: 115
AndrewArroz wrote:

You could have easily been run over by a ghost train, too.

It is said to be haunted, so maybe!

jon bernhard · · grand junction, co · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 288

Mountain Project is the most dangerous newbie scene...

Bob . · · lyons, co · Joined May 2012 · Points: 10

Climber gets near the top of a sport route and yells "anchors" because he sees the anchor up ahead.  Belayer takes him off and walks away.  Climber looks down, doesn't say a word, finishes the climb and raps off.  I mean, it was a stupid thing to yell down in the first place...

edit: not a newbie situation, just a comical one

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

Don't recall if I mentioned this one in the past 16 pages. If so, apologies for the repetition.

Gunks, High Exposure, party of 3. One rope. They were planning on lowering/tossing an end to the next climber. We left before they got on the final pitch.

JFM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,818
Marc801 C wrote:

Don't recall if I mentioned this one in the past 16 pages. If so, apologies for the repetition.

Gunks, High Exposure, party of 3. One rope. They were planning on lowering/tossing an end to the next climber. We left before they got on the final pitch. 

Marc there was a story posted here about folks doing this on one of the flatirons last year, I believe. 

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 770

There was a story a few years ago about a party of three where the middle climber blew the crux on the last pitch of High Exposure. The third held the trailing  rope ,"on Belay" & the the poor girl was passed a knife  !  And  then she, , , , ,  Cut the rope she was following on! 

There was a thread on here at the time,  Anyone remember it?

Robert Michael · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 156

I once mistook a smudge on my rope for the middle marker and then rapped off the TR anchor I had just built. I was solo and didn't have  a partner to confirm both ends were on the ground. Luckily, I happened to look in the direction of the end that was just about 6 feet below me, saw the mistake, and self-belayed my ass back up. The fall would have been about 25' and onto a boulder. And I wasn't a newbie. It was a scary reminder that anyone can fuck up and you must always double-check.

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 0
Robert Michael wrote:

I once mistook a smudge on my rope for the middle marker and then rapped off the TR anchor I had just built. 

Somewhat similar scenario, but tragedy was the result for Paul Duval at the Needles, 2008.  One has to be SO careful with raps.

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,480

There was this one time where a climber was going to lower, but his belayer thought he was rappelling, and there was a Firefly involved...


The horror.

JSH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 969
Michael Schneider wrote:

There was a story a few years ago about a party of three where the middle climber blew the crux on the last pitch of High Exposure. The third held the trailing  rope ,"on Belay" & the the poor girl was passed a knife  !  And  then she, , , , ,  Cut the rope she was following on! 

There was a thread on here at the time,  Anyone remember it?

I found what I think was that thread by searching "screaming high e site:gunks.com" but I think the forum is long dead there, and the wayback machine doesn't have it.  But you have the gist right, if I remember.

Edit add:  found it!  http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=1900322;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

Old lady H · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 290
Crimp Shrimp wrote:

One time, when I was the newbie, I used an alpine harness to TR up a pitch my friend set up .  It was my first or second time rope climbing.  Anyway, on this harness there is not a belay loop and you tie your not through the bottom and top loop of the legs and waste to attach everything.  I climbed the whole pitch with only the bottom loop tied and I "on sited it" luckily.  Because if I fell I imagine I would have flipped upside down and slipped out of the leg loops.  I noticed the mistake after I got to the top and my friend instructed me to lay back on the harness and he would lower me.  As I did this the snap on leg loops were popping undone.  He assured me it was a equilibrium thing and if I layed back the forces would equal out and the buckles would stop popping open. aha. Anyway, I noticed I wasnt really tied in at all and I had to climb above the anchor in search of a ledge because I also did not have any quick draws .  I climbed high very scared, found a ledge luckily, tied in properly , and was brought down.  Moral of this story for me, If you are taking someone who does not know what they are doing ( me as the newbie at the time trusted my friends safety checks and instruction) then you better know what your doing and make sure everything is tied up right.  

The climbers who are teaching this newbie, have reminded me to always climb with at least a few things on your harness, even on top rope. You might need it, and outside isn't the gym.

Glad you got out okay! 

Best, Helen

Chris Blatchley · · Somerville, MA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

last weekend my partner was at the top of a cliff and yelled down to me, "Almost off belay." naturally i took him off, not hearing the first word.

we both had a good laugh at the top. it was a safe cliff top, so no real peril.

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 770
JSH wrote:

I found what I think was that thread by searching "screaming high e site:gunks.com" but I think the forum is long dead there, and the wayback machine doesn't have it.  But you have the gist right, if I remember.

Edit add:  found it!  http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=1900322;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

tHNX FOR THAT!

HEY THERE 't\TROOPER, JHS,' iVE BEEN READING THAT YOU AND I HAVE A LOT OF RECUPERATION IN COMMON. iM A LUCKY RECIPIENT OF A C3-5 FUSION (hIGH nECK, DONT BREAK YOUR NECK) AS WELL AS THE OLE' EXPLODED HEELS & ANKLES DANCE. (AS WELL AS MISSING THAT CURMUDGEON KIETH UHL)oops caps lock(again)

. EDIT; YOGA, YOGA AND MORE YOGA,. . . . FOR EVER HUH, hAPPY hOLIDAYS

Rox · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0
Marc801 C wrote:

Don't recall if I mentioned this one in the past 16 pages. If so, apologies for the repetition.

Gunks, High Exposure, party of 3. One rope. They were planning on lowering/tossing an end to the next climber. We left before they got on the final pitch.

Had a very similar situation on Spearhead in Glacier Gorge. Got to the base at 6am to find a group of 4, with 2 ropes and 1 rack/leader. Decided to pass, taking an alternate route to the top of the 1st pitch. Was very glad we did, considering we were back at camp, under our rock bivy when it hailed at 2pm. They hiked down in the dark.

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 277
JSH wrote:

I found what I think was that thread by searching "screaming high e site:gunks.com" but I think the forum is long dead there, and the wayback machine doesn't have it.  But you have the gist right, if I remember.

Edit add:  found it!  http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=1900322;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

Holy shit, that's insane!

Spencer Perry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 75
Chris Blatchley wrote:

last weekend my partner was at the top of a cliff and yelled down to me, "Almost off belay." naturally i took him off, not hearing the first word.

we both had a good laugh at the top. it was a safe cliff top, so no real peril.

I was belaying my partner on the 10a off-width pitch on the Rostrum this past fall. He had clipped the rope to the number 5 cam he was bumping. He also clipped a sling from the cam directly to his harness. Once he got to the point where he would leave the 5 he unclipped the sling and yelled down "Okay, I'm off the cam!", but all I heard was "Off".  For a second I started to take him off belay, but I decided to just check with him to make sure...happy I did.

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 770
Spencer Perry wrote:

I was belaying my partner on the 10a off-width pitch on the Rostrum this past fall. He had clipped the rope to the number 5 cam he was bumping. He also clipped a sling from the cam directly to his harness. Once he got to the point where he would leave the 5 he unclipped the sling and yelled down "Okay, I'm off the cam!", but all I heard was "Off".  For a second I started to take him off belay, but I decided to just check with him to make sure...happy I did.

Spencer, Bumping  'Biguns' up the wide on the Rostrum, is not No0b, Is your dad Donald? if so you have a storied past, but those are also not No0Bish . . .

Spencer Perry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 75
JSH wrote:

I found what I think was that thread by searching "screaming high e site:gunks.com" but I think the forum is long dead there, and the wayback machine doesn't have it.  But you have the gist right, if I remember.

Edit add:  found it!  http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=1900322;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

It's really too bad that this was in 2008. Had it happened in the past three years, it seems like at least one of the people involved would have been wearing a GoPro.

Chris Charron · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 5
FrankPS wrote:

Yeah, especially the ones who show disdain by saying "you people."

I prefer to show disdain by saying "Some peoples kids"

Spencer Perry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 75
Michael Schneider wrote:

Spencer, Bumping  'Biguns' up the wide on the Rostrum, is not No0b, Is your dad Donald? if so you have a storied past, but those are also not No0Bish . . .

I wasn't saying bumping the cam was a noob thing to do. Showing up at the bottom of the route with 3 #5s on the other hand...

I was just replying to the other guy's comment about communication mishaps. Had I taken him off belay, I would have been the n00b.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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