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Underappreciated climbs/areas at the New


Original Post
Ryan McDermott · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 105

Maybe they only have a single star in the guidebook, maybe  you have to brush away a few cobwebs because it’s an offwidth. Whatever the reason, this is a climb you had a great time on when everybody else walked right by it. Or maybe it’s a particular area or part of a wall that people don’t usually climb at, but it’s particularly good in certain weather or If you want to achieve a very particular objective. 

Zach Allin · · VA · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 35

Totally Tammy at Kaymoor; great slabby route with interesting moves and stays dry even in heavy rain. 

Also the guidebook is pretty harsh on the moderates at south side crags

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 806
Zach Allin wrote:

Totally Tammy at Kaymoor; great slabby route with interesting moves and stays dry even in heavy rain. 

Also the guidebook is pretty harsh on the moderates at south side crags

Oh god, not Totally Tammy! :)

I agree with the south side crags though, the reason they get the harshness has more to do with interpersonal dynamics of the local climbing community, than with the routes.

Tom Halicki · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 35

Crimes of Fashion, S.T.A.N.C., Straight up and Stiff, Bill and Ken's Excellent Adventure

Blake Lehmans · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 15

First, Last, and Always at Upper Meadow

Spencer Perry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 145

Barb Wire (11c) at Sandstonia is pretty fun but compared to the other lines around it (G-string, Kinesthetica, Badass Tattoo, etc), it does not seem to get much traffic.  The first couple of bolts take away from the climbing beacuse the rock is kind of crappy, however those bolts are shared with the start of Badass Tattoo which is pretty popular for the area.  The lack of chalk on this one made finding the holds the crux!

Also, Zealous at Junkyard is absolutely spectacular but surprisingly dirty.  Like many of the routes at Junkyard it gets great sun on colder days, but I guess most people never make it past the bouldering cave.

sean barb · · winston salem, north carolina, · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 80

Wire Train by the ladders at Central Endless is a really nice route that easily gets overlooked.

Brian Payst · · Carrboro,NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

Maranantha at the Bridge is away from the crowds and a fun route. Voyeur variation is one of my favorites and often gets overlooked in favor of glass onion to its left (which is also a good route)

Spencer Perry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 145

+1 for Voyeur Variation and First, Last, and Always.

Kurtrude · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 25

I'll add to the chorus for the route "First, Last and Always".

An "obscure" area that doesn't seem to get the attention it deserves is "Mud Hueco" at the South Side Crags (though it's a bit too cold to go there now). I don't think it's even listed here on MP. Some specific lines to check out down there are "Betty Bravo" (5.11c) and "The Radness" (5.12a).

Cambodia is somewhat obscure (largely due to the long approach), but awesome nonetheless. It hosts a few great lines like "Elliot" (5.12b - must do) and "Phone Home" (5.13a).

This next crag isn't exactly obscure, since it's located at one of the busiest crags at the New, but I do think it contains some criminally under appreciated routes - First Buttress at Kaymoor. Most people seem to walk by it on the way to Rico Suave... I rarely see people trying routes other than "Magnatude" or "Oh, it's you Bob". "Sanctified" and "The Haulage" are very much worth getting on. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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