Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Gunks - Millbrook fixed gear?

Original Post
Kurt G. · · Reading, PA · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 150

Has there been any consideration about putting in permanent fixed gear/rap rings for rapping in? I know Millbrook lacks the traffic needed to warrant fixed gear but seeing as the old tree was used to get to basically all the climbs would it be that difficult to put in one set of rap rings or fixed gear? I've heard tell that the Mohonk preserve isn't crazy about putting in anything permanent except to minimize damage done to the upper slopes. If that's the case is that the only reason or has no one really felt the need to address this?

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 250

There was and probably still is some fixed tat on the huge dead tree above Westward Ha. 

It is a simple matter to find another tree and put your own gear around it so you can rap in. 

I don't think the GCC or the Preserve will be considering placing bolts on Millbrook, because:

1. There is no need for it.

2. It would violate the spirit and tradition of Millbrook. This cliff isn't the Trapps. It sees a fraction of the traffic and part of its atmosphere comes from the almost total lack of fixed gear on the cliff. There are no bolts on Millbrook, and I think most of the people who climb there would agree there should not be any. 

3. I would imagine that putting in a bolted anchor there would set off a full-on bolt war, the likes of which hasn't been seen in the Gunks for decades. Those bolts would be chopped, you can count on it.

Edited to add:

4. The Preserve may not even have the right-- they own a portion of the land above the cliff (Minnewaska owns the part atop Westward Ha, I believe), but most or all of the cliff face is private property, if I'm not mistaken.

lucander · · Stone Ridge, NY · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 257

A gear anchor is easily built at Westward Ha in the cliffband behind the tree, take a few extra in the .5-2 BD size range and fix a line to rap down on a fixed single strand.  

oldfattradguuy kk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 170

The state owns most of the top.  In the '80's work was done by the preserve to try to figure out who owns what at millbrook.  They identified about 40 potential owners for the cliffs and environs it was a mess.  I was the law at minnewaska at the time and was told to basically ignore the fact that there were climbers out there.  After one incident the park manager said he loved climbers.

If you bolted out there the bank manager would deal with it swiftly.  For those of you who do not know who that is, do your homework newbies....I used to get to drive to the top.


Kurt G. · · Reading, PA · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 150

thanks guys. to clarify I wasn't talking about anchors at the top of each climb, i was just suggesting one set of central rappel anchors to get to the base of the climbs. but I get it, its to convoluted to get permission and goes against the spirit of Millbrook.  it was just a thought 

MojoMonkey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 66

There are a few hunks of metal in the clifftop where the carriage road ends - not sure where you'd end up if you slung that to rappel :)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
Post a Reply to "Gunks - Millbrook fixed gear?"

Log In to Reply